A herd of horses along the road to the China/Kazakhstan border.

Photo by Todd Borgie

Help support our cause: The LONGITUDE Expedition is the longest journey ever attempted with a focus on Parkinson's Disease. The Drive Around the World team aims to raise money for Parkinson’s Disease research by driving four Certified, Pre-Owned Land Rover Discoverys around the globe following lines of longitude. Readers are encouraged to pledge small amounts of money per expedition-kilometer via a pledge form that can be found on our Parkinson’s page by clicking HERE. One hundred percent of donations received go directly to Parkinson's research, and all who donate $10 or more will be entered into a raffle to win an expedition-equipped Land Rover Discovery.

Help support our cause: The LONGITUDE Expedition is the longest journey ever attempted with a focus on Parkinson's Disease. The Drive Around the World team aims to raise money for Parkinson’s Disease research by driving four Certified, Pre-Owned Land Rover Discoverys around the globe following lines of longitude. Readers are encouraged to pledge small amounts of money per expedition-kilometer via a pledge form that can be found on our Parkinson’s page by clicking HERE. One hundred percent of donations received go directly to Parkinson's research, and all who donate $10 or more will be entered into a raffle to win an expedition-equipped Land Rover Discovery.

Help support our cause: The LONGITUDE Expedition is the longest journey ever attempted with a focus on Parkinson's Disease. The Drive Around the World team aims to raise money for Parkinson’s Disease research by driving four Certified, Pre-Owned Land Rover Discoverys around the globe following lines of longitude. Readers are encouraged to pledge small amounts of money per expedition-kilometer via a pledge form that can be found on our Parkinson’s page by clicking HERE. One hundred percent of donations received go directly to Parkinson's research, and all who donate $10 or more will be entered into a raffle to win an expedition-equipped Land Rover Discovery.

Nancy in the Taklamakan Desert.

Photo by Todd Borgie

Help support our cause: The LONGITUDE Expedition is the longest journey ever attempted with a focus on Parkinson's Disease. The Drive Around the World team aims to raise money for Parkinson’s Disease research by driving four Certified, Pre-Owned Land Rover Discoverys around the globe following lines of longitude. Readers are encouraged to pledge small amounts of money per expedition-kilometer via a pledge form that can be found on our Parkinson’s page by clicking HERE. One hundred percent of donations received go directly to Parkinson's research, and all who donate $10 or more will be entered into a raffle to win an expedition-equipped Land Rover Discovery.

Help support our cause: The LONGITUDE Expedition is the longest journey ever attempted with a focus on Parkinson's Disease. The Drive Around the World team aims to raise money for Parkinson’s Disease research by driving four Certified, Pre-Owned Land Rover Discoverys around the globe following lines of longitude. Readers are encouraged to pledge small amounts of money per expedition-kilometer via a pledge form that can be found on our Parkinson’s page by clicking HERE. One hundred percent of donations received go directly to Parkinson's research, and all who donate $10 or more will be entered into a raffle to win an expedition-equipped Land Rover Discovery.

We got the cars out of customs, so this little cart horse is off the hook. We won't be needing him afterall...

Photo by Todd Borgie

Help support our cause: The LONGITUDE Expedition is the longest journey ever attempted with a focus on Parkinson's Disease. The Drive Around the World team aims to raise money for Parkinson’s Disease research by driving four Certified, Pre-Owned Land Rover Discoverys around the globe following lines of longitude. Readers are encouraged to pledge small amounts of money per expedition-kilometer via a pledge form that can be found on our Parkinson’s page by clicking HERE. One hundred percent of donations received go directly to Parkinson's research, and all who donate $10 or more will be entered into a raffle to win an expedition-equipped Land Rover Discovery.

Bright colors on display at the Sunday market.
Photo by Todd Borgie

Help support our cause: The LONGITUDE Expedition is the longest journey ever attempted with a focus on Parkinson's Disease. The Drive Around the World team aims to raise money for Parkinson’s Disease research by driving four Certified, Pre-Owned Land Rover Discoverys around the globe following lines of longitude. Readers are encouraged to pledge small amounts of money per expedition-kilometer via a pledge form that can be found on our Parkinson’s page by clicking HERE. One hundred percent of donations received go directly to Parkinson's research, and all who donate $10 or more will be entered into a raffle to win an expedition-equipped Land Rover Discovery.

Todd tries out a new hat at the Sunday Market. We love his hat because of how happy it makes him. Look at that smile...
Photo by Chanda Baggarly

Help support our cause: The LONGITUDE Expedition is the longest journey ever attempted with a focus on Parkinson's Disease. The Drive Around the World team aims to raise money for Parkinson’s Disease research by driving four Certified, Pre-Owned Land Rover Discoverys around the globe following lines of longitude. Readers are encouraged to pledge small amounts of money per expedition-kilometer via a pledge form that can be found on our Parkinson’s page by clicking HERE. One hundred percent of donations received go directly to Parkinson's research, and all who donate $10 or more will be entered into a raffle to win an expedition-equipped Land Rover Discovery.

Todd and Chanda pose with some Uighur people in Kashgar.

Photo by Nick Baggarly

Help support our cause: The LONGITUDE Expedition is the longest journey ever attempted with a focus on Parkinson's Disease. The Drive Around the World team aims to raise money for Parkinson’s Disease research by driving four Certified, Pre-Owned Land Rover Discoverys around the globe following lines of longitude. Readers are encouraged to pledge small amounts of money per expedition-kilometer via a pledge form that can be found on our Parkinson’s page by clicking HERE. One hundred percent of donations received go directly to Parkinson's research, and all who donate $10 or more will be entered into a raffle to win an expedition-equipped Land Rover Discovery.

Justin winks knowingly at the camera, giving his best "come-hither" grin. Tomorrow, he will have to scrub hard to remove his new facial hair before jumping on a plane for Kansas.

Journal and photo by Colin McAuliffe

The J-man has flown the coop; Juicy Justin has left the team. I have lost a very valuable ally and fellow joke-teller, and not to mention occasional driving partner and full-time roommate. The team has lost its navigator, P.R., guy and staunch supporter. Justin's younger brother Chris is getting married, and in accordance with an agreement Justin made with said brother, Justin flew home yesterday to be in the wedding party. Of course, Justin had not planned to leave the expedition; in fact, before we left, Justin's brother pushed back the date of the wedding to assure that Justin could attend. Unfortunately, the best-laid plans... yadda yadda yadda, and we aren't home yet.

We gave Justin a fitting last-evening send off. We gathered all the travelers we have grown to know here at the Seman hotel (seriously, that's what it's called) and, purchasing copious amounts of local milkshakes, we celebrated life in one of the few ways we still can, by drinking dairy products to the honored and envied individual’s health. It was a fun evening and ended up in the room that Justin, Adam, Neil and I had been sharing, where a medium-sized, multi-national party was held with esteemed guests from across the globe. The guest of honor fell asleep early, and awoke the next morning to some new Captain-Morgan-esque facial hair that had somehow sprouted over night. The afternoon put him in a cab and sent him on his way. All I could say was "you lucky son of a gun."

So, we are still in Kashgar; it's been a week, but I must admit that time flies here. This town is still great, but having been in so many great towns, I can't say I'm all that motivated to go out and about, plus, my foot hurts for some reason, so I really don't stray too far from the Seman hotel. Yesterday, Johan, our local Dutch/Russian communist propaganda monger took Neil and me to yet another army surplus store, where we completely stocked up. I bought a full People's Liberation Army outfit: jacket, pants, socks, belt, and winter hat, for around 20 bucks. It goes great with my overcoat. People at home are going to think I'm a communist, but they're wrong; I just like green. Neil bought three pairs of shoes (which I don't understand), a HUGE sheepskin-lined winter overcoat, and an army suit. I guess we're preparing for winter in Siberia, but I just think the stuff is really cool, especially the belt and hat. Sunday market is coming up once again in another two days. Maybe I’ll have some more interesting stories for you then.

Help support our cause: The LONGITUDE Expedition is the longest journey ever attempted with a focus on Parkinson's Disease. The Drive Around the World team aims to raise money for Parkinson’s Disease research by driving four Certified, Pre-Owned Land Rover Discoverys around the globe following lines of longitude. Readers are encouraged to pledge small amounts of money per expedition-kilometer via a pledge form that can be found on our Parkinson’s page by clicking HERE. One hundred percent of donations received go directly to Parkinson's research, and all who donate $10 or more will be entered into a raffle to win an expedition-equipped Land Rover Discovery.

Adam does his best Grizzly Adam(s) impression in Kashgar. Dressed all in fur, he's ready for the Siberian winter.
[Photo by Neil Dana]

Journal by Nancy Olson

Howdy, ya’ll. Well, here we are at Kashgar, just puttin’ in time. It’s another waiting game, and not one of us is anxious to do any waiting. We want to get home to friends and family before the holidays so we don’t have to spend another Christmas and New Year on the road. But, since we have to have China license tags and permits, we have to wait until their big national holiday ends. As it turns out, today is the last day of their weeklong celebration. I’ve still absolutely no clue what it is they’re celebrating…

Anyhow, most today’s action occurred in the final hours of the day, with the early hours being quite mundane. My day started out with some Internetting, followed by pizza and apple pie at an American-run dining facility known as the Caravan Café. There, Todd and I conversed with our new friends from Canada and Australia before bidding them farewell. They’re hopping on a train for a 20-hour ride to another section of China.

Meanwhile, Neil and Colin bought up all the cold-weather Chinese Army surplus they could find in preparation for our impending advance into the frigid tundra of Russia and Alaska. Like two schoolgirls, they took turns modeling their new digs for Chanda and me. Neil has a knee-length, green army coat lined in sheepskin (or maybe it’s yak?) with a dark, furry collar (looks like beaver, but it must be rabbit or mongoose?). To match, he bought fur-lined, camouflage, Converse-looking Army high-tops and a big, soft, floppy rabbit-fur hat with tie-down ear warmers. Truthfully, since he loves them so much and wants them to last forever, he bought three pair of the boots.

Colin has been collecting big hats for a while now, and we made his final addition to the collection today with the purchase of a gigantic Chinese People’s Liberation Army hat. It’s green on the outside, with seriously thick brown fur on the inside. It’s a lumberjack-style hat with the fold-down ear covers, and this one is also adorned with a flap of fur that can be pulled down to protect the wearer’s nose. Of course, he also bought the matching jacket and trousers, with the PLA insignia still attached, illegally, to the jacket collar. He had to promise the frightened lady who sold it to him that he wouldn’t wear it inside of China. His most-prized purchase today was a uniform belt with a gleaming PLA buckle, red and gold on silver.

Finally, in the evening, the most important event of the day occurred. We’re still trying to get used to it, and it might take a while to sink in: Justin Mounts, our teammie, pilot of D4, medic, navigator, and PR guy, departed this morning. He’s heading home to Kansas to take part in his brother’s wedding, and we won’t see him again until Alaska. It’ll be weird, and we’ll miss him.

I’ll take over most of his jobs (thanks a lot, Justo), and Todd will take over his vehicle. So, for the next leg, it will be just the seven of us. Lucky for all of you back home, Justin will still be in touch through the Saturday journals and photos he will continue to produce for us.

Take care out there,

Nancy

Help support our cause: The LONGITUDE Expedition is the longest journey ever attempted with a focus on Parkinson's Disease. The Drive Around the World team aims to raise money for Parkinson’s Disease research by driving four Certified, Pre-Owned Land Rover Discoverys around the globe following lines of longitude. Readers are encouraged to pledge small amounts of money per expedition-kilometer via a pledge form that can be found on our Parkinson’s page by clicking HERE. One hundred percent of donations received go directly to Parkinson's research, and all who donate $10 or more will be entered into a raffle to win an expedition-equipped Land Rover Discovery.

A traditional-looking Uighur man.

Photo by Neil Dana

Help support our cause: The LONGITUDE Expedition is the longest journey ever attempted with a focus on Parkinson's Disease. The Drive Around the World team aims to raise money for Parkinson’s Disease research by driving four Certified, Pre-Owned Land Rover Discoverys around the globe following lines of longitude. Readers are encouraged to pledge small amounts of money per expedition-kilometer via a pledge form that can be found on our Parkinson’s page by clicking HERE. One hundred percent of donations received go directly to Parkinson's research, and all who donate $10 or more will be entered into a raffle to win an expedition-equipped Land Rover Discovery.

Uighur ladies and children in Kashgar.

Photo by Neil Dana

Help support our cause: The LONGITUDE Expedition is the longest journey ever attempted with a focus on Parkinson's Disease. The Drive Around the World team aims to raise money for Parkinson’s Disease research by driving four Certified, Pre-Owned Land Rover Discoverys around the globe following lines of longitude. Readers are encouraged to pledge small amounts of money per expedition-kilometer via a pledge form that can be found on our Parkinson’s page by clicking HERE. One hundred percent of donations received go directly to Parkinson's research, and all who donate $10 or more will be entered into a raffle to win an expedition-equipped Land Rover Discovery.

Neil poses in his favorite new hat. We all agree it suits him to a T!

A camel in Neil's big hat.

Uighur man in Neil's big hat

Chinese man in Neil's big hat

Today was such a brilliant experience, filled with local culture and a heck of a lot of fun! Adam, Colin, and I ended up on a small bus from our hotel here in Kashgar on an hour ride out into the countryside towards a small Uighur village. It is Monday and that is their weekly day to have a local market, filled with livestock, hats, silks, shoes, food, fat-bottomed sheep, and even some camels.

When we arrived, the town was filled with people and very dusty roads, especially near where the livestock were kept. These people are the Uyrgr people, and this whole area of China, called Xinxiang, has been taken over by the Han Chinese, and the Uighurs detest the Han Chinese. China is huge, and they took this small area away from the Uighur people. In fact, in Kashgar, within the next few days, most, if not all, of the Han Chinese will leave Kashgar for the entire winter to go back to their homes in other parts of China. They only come here for the work and trade during the nicer parts of the year. Right now we are heading into their harsh winter months.

So I find myself walking around this Uighur village filled with beautiful people selling everything you can imagine. There are little girls selling bagels, old women selling apples, men repairing shoes in the dust, food vendors burning old clay ovens using local wood instead of coal, cooking delicious lakman and other local foods. Lakman is a local Uighur dish made with noodles, mutton, bell peppers, chili, tomato, onions, some leafy greens, and some other tasty spices. You can buy it on every street corner. Another ingredient that is actually the main ingredient in the local food here is the FAT-BOTTOMED SHEEP BUTTS! Yep, fat bottoms are the delicacy here, and they are pure fat. These sheep are so cute and funny looking. They walk around with their big bums swaying with every step, and the bigger the better. In fact, at the livestock part of the market, you see men and boys feeling and grabbing the sheep bottoms trying to find the fattest one. They sell for the most.

As you look around, you also see dead sheep and bulls, and all the innards hanging up. There are intestines, stomach, goat head soup, and big freshly skinned sheep bottoms ready to buy and eat. It is a bit tough to stomach at first, then you get used to it, and before you know it, you just bit into a dumpling filled with fresh sheep butts. And speaking of asses, there are plenty of donkeys pulling all the merchants and their things around town.

It really is difficult to keep this journal short, because there is so much to tell about this market. I guess you will have to come to Kashgar yourself to really experience it all. It was a bit sad to see all the goats and sheep tied up together. It is really hot here during the day and some of the goats squeal and struggle to get their head up on the back of another just for some fresh air and I know they are dying for water, poor guys.

Now the coolest part of my whole experience in this town is my HAT!!! Yesterday at the Sunday market I bought a local hat made of wool and it is a really big hat, and everywhere I go, the local people stare, smile, and laugh hysterically at me. It is great; everyone wants to wear it and touch it and trade and just make conversation. So everywhere I went all day I was meeting people nonstop and laughing and having a fun time. In fact, when the one camel came through the town during the day, there was a crowd around him, and I even managed to get the camel to wear the hat!

All the people here are genuinely friendly, and it was a really pleasant experience. We are stuck here for a week or so, and it really is a good place to be stuck, since there is interesting culture and great food everywhere.

Neil

Help support our cause: The LONGITUDE Expedition is the longest journey ever attempted with a focus on Parkinson's Disease. The Drive Around the World team aims to raise money for Parkinson’s Disease research by driving four Certified, Pre-Owned Land Rover Discoverys around the globe following lines of longitude. Readers are encouraged to pledge small amounts of money per expedition-kilometer via a pledge form that can be found on our Parkinson’s page by clicking HERE. One hundred percent of donations received go directly to Parkinson's research, and all who donate $10 or more will be entered into a raffle to win an expedition-equipped Land Rover Discovery.

We interrogated this little boy, but he claims to know nothing about hour missing bike...suspicious little devil, isn't he? :)

Photo by Nancy Olson

Help support our cause: The LONGITUDE Expedition is the longest journey ever attempted with a focus on Parkinson's Disease. The Drive Around the World team aims to raise money for Parkinson’s Disease research by driving four Certified, Pre-Owned Land Rover Discoverys around the globe following lines of longitude. Readers are encouraged to pledge small amounts of money per expedition-kilometer via a pledge form that can be found on our Parkinson’s page by clicking HERE. One hundred percent of donations received go directly to Parkinson's research, and all who donate $10 or more will be entered into a raffle to win an expedition-equipped Land Rover Discovery.

"Columbo" interrogates villagers during our day of searching for our lost bike and tire. Total loss? More than $4,000... There's a reward offered, so maybe it'll turn up.

Help support our cause: The LONGITUDE Expedition is the longest journey ever attempted with a focus on Parkinson's Disease. The Drive Around the World team aims to raise money for Parkinson’s Disease research by driving four Certified, Pre-Owned Land Rover Discoverys around the globe following lines of longitude. Readers are encouraged to pledge small amounts of money per expedition-kilometer via a pledge form that can be found on our Parkinson’s page by clicking HERE. One hundred percent of donations received go directly to Parkinson's research, and all who donate $10 or more will be entered into a raffle to win an expedition-equipped Land Rover Discovery.

Now you see it,

Now you don't. The entire mount, with the Bike, rack, and spare, fell off the vehicle on a very bumpy road.

Photos by Nancy Olson

Help support our cause: The LONGITUDE Expedition is the longest journey ever attempted with a focus on Parkinson's Disease. The Drive Around the World team aims to raise money for Parkinson’s Disease research by driving four Certified, Pre-Owned Land Rover Discoverys around the globe following lines of longitude. Readers are encouraged to pledge small amounts of money per expedition-kilometer via a pledge form that can be found on our Parkinson’s page by clicking HERE. One hundred percent of donations received go directly to Parkinson's research, and all who donate $10 or more will be entered into a raffle to win an expedition-equipped Land Rover Discovery.