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February 29, 2004

Nothing exciting; just doing errands


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You'd cry, too, if the stupid airline put a gigantic dent in your bike frame! I've been told by my insurance company and by the airline that I will recive no compensation for this damage. I feel like a terrible mother, incapable of taking proper care of my precious bicycle. Sorry, Nick...Sorry, Santa Cruz...


Journal and photo by Nancy Olson.

I got a late start today, at about 9:30 a.m. I did my usual work on the Internet, and then I went to the mall to find some provisions, such as sunscreen and a camera battery. No luck with the camera, but a local battery shop did offer to charge it up for me, so I’ll be set until I run out of juice again. (I left my charger in the Land Rover, and the Land Rover is on a ship…)

I'm still crying about the dent in my Santa Cruz.

Help support our cause: The LONGITUDE Expedition is the longest journey ever attempted with a focus on Parkinson's Disease. The Drive Around the World team aims to raise money for Parkinson’s Disease research by driving four certified pre-owned Land Rover Discoverys around the globe following lines of longitude. Readers are encouraged to pledge small amounts of money per expedition-kilometer via a pledge form that can be found on our Parkinson’s page by clicking here. 100% of donations received go directly to Parkinson's research and all who donate $10 or more will be entered into a raffle to win an expedition-equipped Land Rover Discovery.

Posted by Nancy Olson at 05:22 AM
View/Add Comments (0) | Category: 16-Nancy's East Coast of Oz Bike Trip

February 28, 2004

Samba School

Journal and photo by Justin Mounts

Five days ago, I made a decision to fly to Brazil. Now, this decision wasn’t one of life or death, that’s for sure, but it was a decision that came with a great deal of uncertainty for me. First, I had not done my normal amount of research on a country to know what to expect. Second, I don’t speak Portuguese. Finally, I don’t know a single person in Brazil. I am quite accustomed to traveling to new places where I don’t know anyone, but it is exponentially more difficult when you don’t really know anything about the country or the language. This should be interesting…

Today is day 120 of the LONGITUDE Expedition, and the team has split up to the far corners of the earth for the next 6-7 weeks while our vehicles ship from Buenos Aires, Argentina, to Brisbane, Australia. More importantly, today is my first day of Samba lessons. I was presented with a great opportunity to start learning samba the other night while I was at Carioca de Gema, one of Rio’s smaller venues for live Brazilian music. I met the choreographer for the Mangueira samba school, and having just completed the rigors of this year’s Carnival festivities, she was more than happy to teach a few steps to a neophyte.

The samba originates from rhythms African slaves brought with them to the sugar plantations in Brazil, and it is the heart and soul of Brazilian music. Almost everywhere you go in Rio, you will hear samba playing in the background. I was quick to realize that Brazilians are passionate people and passionate about their music. The music of Brazil is that of a vibrant country, and the music reflects the complex mix of races and nationalities that make the people of Brazil who they are.

The samba is an amazing dance to watch. Feet are moving in a full flurry, while hips shake at a velocity that makes your head spin. At first sight, it is actually quite difficult to believe that a human can move that fast. When you break the dance down, it is actually a series of very simple steps that are repeated. For men, the basic samba is made up of only 6 steps. Even I, a 6’ 3” gangly gringo can dance this one, I think. The thing that worries me is the speed. Brazilians are taught to dance when they are children. So, most samba dancers you see have 10-20 years of practice on you. “Don’t be intimidated,” I was told. “Once you get the rhythm down, your speed will increase right away.”

Yeah, right…

After dancing to the first song, I was in a full sweat. After dancing the second song, I was exhausted. After 30 minutes of dancing, I was praying for death. But I am determined. One way or another, before I leave Rio, I will know how to Samba.

Until next time, I wish you all well from the far side of the world.

Help support our cause: The LONGITUDE Expedition is the longest journey ever attempted with a focus on Parkinson's Disease. The Drive Around the World team aims to raise money for Parkinson’s Disease research by driving four certified pre-owned Land Rover Discoverys around the globe following lines of longitude. Readers are encouraged to pledge small amounts of money per expedition-kilometer via a pledge form that can be found on our Parkinson’s page by clicking here. 100% of donations received go directly to Parkinson's research and all who donate $10 or more will be entered into a raffle to win an expedition-equipped Land Rover Discovery.

Posted by Nancy Olson at 12:17 PM
View/Add Comments (0) | Category: 17-Waiting for Vehicles to Ship, Part I
An uneventful day in Cairns


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Wandering around in the rain in Cairns, I spied this sweeeeet old Land Rover. I want one!


Journal and photo by Nancy Olson.

Today, I went to the bike shop to see Vince at about 9 a.m. He had fixed my brake, and I thanked him profusely for it. Later, I went to the Internet café, again, to do some work on the Drive Around the World journal page.

Later, I watched “Along Came Polly”, with Ben Stiller and Jennifer Aniston, at the local theatre. It wasn’t great, but it wasn’t bad, either. I love those two actors, so it was worth seeing. On the way to the theatre, I saw a cool old Land Rover.

When the movie was over, I did some route planning for my bike trip and decided I need a minimum of 23 days to travel the 1100 miles to Brisbane.

After that, it was dinner, more Internet, and than Dr. Doolittle on tv. I love going to bed early!


Help support our cause: The LONGITUDE Expedition is the longest journey ever attempted with a focus on Parkinson's Disease. The Drive Around the World team aims to raise money for Parkinson’s Disease research by driving four certified pre-owned Land Rover Discoverys around the globe following lines of longitude. Readers are encouraged to pledge small amounts of money per expedition-kilometer via a pledge form that can be found on our Parkinson’s page by clicking here. 100% of donations received go directly to Parkinson's research and all who donate $10 or more will be entered into a raffle to win an expedition-equipped Land Rover Discovery.

Posted by Nancy Olson at 05:17 AM
View/Add Comments (0) | Category: 16-Nancy's East Coast of Oz Bike Trip

February 27, 2004

Snorkelling the Great Barrier Reef


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Wally: the friendliest, most lovable fish on the entire 2000 kilometre stretch of The Great Barrier Reef. Wally loves scuba Divers, loves snorkellers, loves everybody! And he weighs about as much as YOU do!


Journal by Nancy Olson.

Today was a beautiful day for being out on the ocean. It was hot, but it was bright and sunny, and perfect for snorkelling. A bunch of backpackers and I had a diving cruise scheduled from 8:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. to celebrate the 23rd birthday of one of Leo’s employees, Kerrie.

We snorkelled on two reefs, and we had a nice lunch and some birthday cake. In the water, I practiced diving down as deep as I could go. I had to equalize the pressure in my ears by blowing out through my nose in a procedure known as “val-salva.” It keeps your ears from imploding, so to speak. I had a great time swimming around with the beautiful fishies and the brilliant reds, blues, yellows, and greens of the coral reef. I even found a sea turtle! I swam up to him, and he let me grab on to him for a brief moment before swimming off to another part of the reef. There was also a huge four-or-five-foot fish there named “Wally”, who was so friendly that you could pet him and give him hugs! Australia’s Great Barrier Reef is just an incredible national treasure, and it is impossible to describe how unbelievably beautiful the brightly colored fish and corals are! I found several bright-blue starfish, and one neon red one that looked like they must have been spray-painted with glitter paint! Unbelievable!

On the boat, I met a guy from Boston, and we swapped travellers’ stories until the boat docked back in Cairns harbour. Unfortunately, our boat docked too late for me to go mountain biking with Hayden!

Help support our cause: The LONGITUDE Expedition is the longest journey ever attempted with a focus on Parkinson's Disease. The Drive Around the World team aims to raise money for Parkinson’s Disease research by driving four certified pre-owned Land Rover Discoverys around the globe following lines of longitude. Readers are encouraged to pledge small amounts of money per expedition-kilometer via a pledge form that can be found on our Parkinson’s page by clicking here. 100% of donations received go directly to Parkinson's research and all who donate $10 or more will be entered into a raffle to win an expedition-equipped Land Rover Discovery.

Posted by Nancy Olson at 05:10 AM
View/Add Comments (0) | Category: 16-Nancy's East Coast of Oz Bike Trip
Colin McAuliffe is in Brazil


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A little boy whom Colin met.
Journal by Colin McAuliffe

Well, I guess I'm starting to get into the Rio vibe. I've been here for a while now, and I'm starting to feel at home. We've got our sweet little apartment near the beach, and I've been working my butt off during the day editing a promo video, but I still have a little time to explore at night. There's tons of live music here. Our first venture was to a live samba/bossanova club, which was really cool, and last night we went and saw what I guess is like a new kind of samba/rock/reggae hybrid band. The rocked. Halfway through the show they brought out a huge drum troop and two carnivale style samba dancers, you know with the feather headdress and all. It was very cool. A lot of the venues here have this interesting system where when you come in you get basically a check list, and as you drink and eat, they check off what you have bought. Then, at the end of the night, you settle your bill. I like it. Anyway, I'm having lots of fun, but I wish this video thing would be finished already so I could have some more time to explore.

Posted by Nancy Olson at 04:11 AM
View/Add Comments (0) | Category: 17-Waiting for Vehicles to Ship, Part I

February 26, 2004

Cairns: Gateway to the Great Barrier Reef


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Leo's Retreat is the best budget hostel in Cairns, boasting tropical air-conditioned accommodation in the heart of the city. It has a swimming pool, pool table, internet, café, and a games/video/TV room. The original historical Queenslander building captures a friendly atmosphere almost like home, and the staff calls your by name!


Journal by Nancy Olson.

I was able to sleep until about eight this morning, which was a welcome improvement over yesterday’s 4:00 a.m.!

I put my bike together last night, so it was ready for sorting today. I went to the Laundromat and tried calling USAA (my insurance company) and Qantas this morning. Good luck with the laundry, but no luck with the bike problem.

Later, I ended up biking to a nearby shop, whereupon I discovered damage to my front brake pads and shoes. I was directed to Edge Bicycles, where Vince set about fixing the brake. He is the Santa Cruz dealer for Cairns.

I left the brake with him and went to my favorite Internet café, Global Gossip. There, a cool employee named Hayden admired my sweet Santa Cruz bike and invited me for a ride on some local trails. After my snorkelling excursion tomorrow, I’ll stop by to meet him at 4:30 for some trail riding.

I also finally reached USAA, and they said they’ll contact me about my claim. I have my fingers crossed.

Business settled, I went to the mall to waste time in the A/C.

Later, I showered, had a free dinner at Leo’s, and then went back to the mall for a movie, “Stuck on You”, with Matt Damon and Greg Kinnear. Not a bad flick!

I went to bed early after watching a little tv. The gang from Leo’s is meeting tomorrow morning at 7 a.m. for a snorkelling excursion to the Great Barrier Reef!

Help support our cause: The LONGITUDE Expedition is the longest journey ever attempted with a focus on Parkinson's Disease. The Drive Around the World team aims to raise money for Parkinson’s Disease research by driving four certified pre-owned Land Rover Discoverys around the globe following lines of longitude. Readers are encouraged to pledge small amounts of money per expedition-kilometer via a pledge form that can be found on our Parkinson’s page by clicking here. 100% of donations received go directly to Parkinson's research and all who donate $10 or more will be entered into a raffle to win an expedition-equipped Land Rover Discovery.

February 25, 2004

Intermediate stop in Sydney


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The very "Aussie" decor of the living room of the Kangaroo Backpackers hostel in Sydney. Since I was the only one up at 4 a.m., I decided to snap some photos!


Journal and photo by Nancy Olson.

I woke up in the clothes I’d sat down in last night, when I’d intended to do some reading. The local time was four a.m., and I needed to use the bathroom. I had to go down four flights of stairs to the bathroom, so I was very awake by the time the toilet flushed. I watched a movie until 7:30 a.m. Adjusting to time changes is quite difficult!

I went out into the rain to find an Internet café and a map store. The map store was like AAA and requires a membership, and it didn’t have the maps I needed, anyway. It was getting late (10:00 a.m.), and I needed to get back to the hostel, change, and catch a taxi to the airport for my 1:30 flight to Cairns.

After waiting far too long for it to arrive, I finally met my taxi. I think the cabby was mad because I didn’t tip him, but he had a lot of nerve to be uppity about my bike box being a little bit cumbersome. So what if it doesn’t have any handles on it!

I had a nice flight with lots of television to keep me occupied. It was fun looking down and seeing the Great Barrier Reef on our approach. Eight dollars got me to Leo’s Budget Accommodations, where I was treated to an A/C, fridge, TV, and double bed for the price of the single I had reserved online at Bootsnall.com.

I love Leo’s. It is very clean and friendly, and the staff knows EVERYBODY’s name. They are awesome.

When I opened my bike box, I discovered a huge, heart-breaking ding in the top tube, just on top of the “B” logo. So sad! I’ll have to sort it out with Qantas and USAA tomorrow. Tonight, I had a free Leo’s dinner and enjoyed the luxury of my A/C and tv.


Help support our cause: The LONGITUDE Expedition is the longest journey ever attempted with a focus on Parkinson's Disease. The Drive Around the World team aims to raise money for Parkinson’s Disease research by driving four certified pre-owned Land Rover Discoverys around the globe following lines of longitude. Readers are encouraged to pledge small amounts of money per expedition-kilometer via a pledge form that can be found on our Parkinson’s page by clicking here. 100% of donations received go directly to Parkinson's research and all who donate $10 or more will be entered into a raffle to win an expedition-equipped Land Rover Discovery.

Posted by Nancy Olson at 04:51 AM
View/Add Comments (0) | Category: 16-Nancy's East Coast of Oz Bike Trip
Todd explores Buenos Aires


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Chanda, Nick, and Todd work from the comfort of their Buenos Aires apartment.

Journal and Photos by Todd Borgie.


This was catch-up day. Traveling so much and so quickly makes it hard to get all that needs to be done, done. There are several articles that I need to write, people I need to contact, stuff to update, and errands to run. Today, there was nothing on the official agenda, just a threatening to-do list. Already, Neil, Nancy, and Justin have left, leaving Adam and Colin here until Thursday working on film stuff. Nick, Chanda, and I will spend the duration of the break in Buenos Aires and the surrounding areas, which we are all looking forward to.

People in Buenos Aires live at a different side of the day than I am used to. Usually the nightclubs and disco techs close at 7:00 a.m., and Neil read at one point that it’s uncouth to show up at a certain Brazilian club here before 2:00am. This is tough for me, a morning person. As the hour gets later and later, my intelligence gets lower and lower. At about 12:00 p.m. or 1:00 a.m., I am a blooming idiot. Nick and I have been working at staying up later, although he needs no practice. The day dawned for us at about 10:30 a.m., and we hit the computers. I updated answers to questions and began to face the work that had been building up. After a while, Nick and Chanda rolled out of bed and began working on sponsorship stuff.

We are patiently waiting for our new Internet connection that will be coming on Friday, as then we will be fully resourced in order to prepare for the second half of the expedition.

We now live in a high-rise apartment on the 7th floor, Apt B (for Baggarly and Borgie).
It is nice to live in a place for more than a day or two, and I am looking forward to exploring the neighborhood and the surrounding areas of Buenos Aires, which I have been very impressed with, so far.

This city strikes me, and I think it has been called the Paris of South America. The city is very spread out. In our part of the city, Palermo, we have a huge park, or a series of connected parks, where you can see people walking, running, or just hanging out drinking mate (a type of Argentine tea that is very popular). Wide streets run through this city, making crossing them very difficult in any other location than at a light. Some of these streets are even eight-or-more lanes wide. Of all the countries we have visited, this one seems to be the least Latin. If you were secretly transported here, when you awoke you would be convinced you would be in Europe, because even the Spanish language (Castelleno) is different then the rest of the continent. Well, more investigations will lead to more discoveries another day.

Driving here is crazy, although my only experience driving is sitting in the back of a cab (we bypassed the city on our way to the port). Despite the fact they have so much room, they use lanes more as general guidelines than rules of the road. They seem to straddle lanes and tuck their way in and out of traffic. There have been more than a few times when the car I have been riding in has been only inches away from the one next to it, moving at 30 mph down the road. Sometimes there are only inches on both sides of the car. Surprisingly enough, I have not seen many accidents.

Chanda and I had some errands to run today, so we were out and about around 9:00 p.m. We had to give Adam and Colin money so they could survive in Brazil (sounds rough). Actually, I was traveling as Chanda’s muscle. It is fun running around and doing errands. You always stumble upon something new, and there is always a reason to drink coffee, which we did.

We got to Adam and Colin’s hotel room, and they were getting ready to go. Colin still needed to get a steroid shot. The doctor in Chile prescribed this for the problems he has been having with his ear. Chanda, our team nurse, said she was willing to it. However, as she looked into the steroid package, there were a couple of different needles and vials and no directions. A little nervous, she thought it would better if someone else did it. Apparently that someone else was not me.

Moving on, Chanda agreed to go on a goose chase with me. I always like to look for Parkinson’s facilities wherever we go, and Buenos Aires no different. I found a group in Argentina off the www.wpda.org website. They had a chapter here in Buenos Aires, so I decided to track it down. All I had was an address, figuring it was going to be in an obvious place. We arrived at the address, but there was no big sign or anything, just a tall apartment building with a locked security door…hmmm... There was a panel of buttons I could ring to the individual apartments, but I was not sure of the number; all I had written down was 6-9. A young woman was waiting at the door for her mother, so we asked her some questions. She really didn’t know what we were talking about and knew nothing of any kind of Parkinson’s facility here. When her mother came down, she didn’t know what we were talking about, either, and looked like she just wanted us to leave. In fact, she wouldn’t let us in, so we had to leave.

We went down to the local Internet café so that I could verify my information. Apparently what I had written down was correct, but I didn’t know what it meant. Six-9 meant Apartment 6 on the 9th floor. Armed with new information, we went back (only a few blocks). The same lady was there, looking kind of annoyed that we had returned (probably she is the type that just always looks annoyed). Again, she wouldn’t let us in, so we tried our luck at the brass calling panel on the front of the building. We rang what we thought was the correct room, but nothing…shoot!

I had one more address to check out, so we jumped into a taxi and headed across town again. Once more, we ended up at the front of a large high-rise apartment. We meet a few guys at the front door, in coveralls, and they quickly told me that the people we were looking for were on vacation and wouldn’t be back for another month…hmmm. Who was this guy, and why did he know that? He had a cement trowel in his hand and he was working on the sidewalk.

Two strikes, and we figured we’d have lunch,. Later that afternoon in my quest for running shoes, we needed to go back to the first area we were in. Shopper Chanda noticed that there was a Nike outlet there. After buying my shoes, Nick, Chanda, and I decided to give it another go at this apartment. As luck would have it, there was a fellow there that knew exactly what I was talking about. After a quick call, a shaky woman came down the stairs. After exchanging information, she told me that there would be a Parkinson's support-group meeting the following Wednesday at San Nicholas Debario Church. Great; we will see you next week.

This was terrific, as I was well on my way to finding more about the Parkinson’s community in Buenos Aires. She told me there were more than 60,000 people that suffered from Parkinson’s disease in this country alone; wow! We will see what next week brings. This is an interesting city; I look forward to learning more about the city, its history, the Parkinson’s Community, Evita, politics, and immigrant life in this booming metropolis. I am sure the Parkinson’s Community will offer a lot of insight into all of this.

Help support our cause: The LONGITUDE Expedition is the longest journey ever attempted with a focus on Parkinson's Disease. The Drive Around the World team aims to raise money for Parkinson’s Disease research by driving four certified pre-owned Land Rover Discoverys around the globe following lines of longitude. Readers are encouraged to pledge small amounts of money per expedition-kilometer via a pledge form that can be found on our Parkinson’s page by clicking here. 100% of donations received go directly to Parkinson's research and all who donate $10 or more will be entered into a raffle to win an expedition-equipped Land Rover Discovery.

Posted by Nancy Olson at 03:46 AM
View/Add Comments (0) | Category: 17-Waiting for Vehicles to Ship, Part I

February 24, 2004

The Internet Peso

Journal and photo by Adam Burgess

Buenos Aires has proven to be one of the cheapest places on this trip and ironically a nation’s capital. Internet is often an indicator, and at 30 cents an hour, you can’t beat it. When we hook-up online, we often take our laptops because we use Outlook Express to write emails at the hotel, and it allows us to attach photos from the expedition. Usually the process goes something like this: We walk in, bust out the laptops and say “notebook”, or “laptop”, esta possible? They usually say yes and help you connect by offering you the LAN configuration numbers. Other times we just walk in, detach the phone line, check their computer in MS DOS for the numbers, and plug in and roll. Neil pointed out to Nick, Nancy and I that he had found a really large three-floor café that had cheap Internet. We all headed down there, laptops in hand, and walked in. They gave us numbers for the machines, and we went our separate ways. Nick and I were near each other, and I was asking him if he can connect here (he’s a computer nerd and knows everything about them). He asked the attendant if he was allowed, and the attendant said wait a minute I will ask the owner. A minute later he comes back to say that the price to use a laptop would be 10 pesos per hour. Ten times the normal price! Not only was this the first time ever but also the most expensive ever. We didn’t really like that answer and requested to talk to the owner. The guy looked like a German immigrant or a Nazi in disguise, but was from Argentina. He was tall with a square jaw, scrawny and snippy. After trying to renegotiate the price by telling him we are nine people staying for 10 days and would use his service for hours a day each day, he didn’t seem to give. Nick then busted out the Drive Around the World for Parkinson’s story translated through the attendant who spoke excellent English. He was interested, and then Nick remembered that we were in the Buenos Aires Herald that day for our Expedition. We showed him the article, “270 days Around the World”. He fumbled through the words a little, smiled, and came off with a pleasant demeanor, but would not budge. At this point I suggested I’d find another place because it’s not worth the hassle. So, I left and went around the corner 30 feet away, where I was lured in by a sexy woman wearing a billboard that said “Internet 1 peso/hr.” I followed her and entered a tiny little hole-in-the-wall shop run by a young Indian-looking guy. He was very pleasant and even hooked up my laptop for me. Quickly I went back over to Nick and told him to abandon his efforts. He tromped back over with me, and as we left, some guy at the desk said I owe money. I replied, “Por que?” and walked out. Ten minutes of peaceful email checking went by, and then I randomly peered up through the window. Marching into the shop was Heiss and two SS troopers. He barged into the shop and started screaming at me in Spanish. I was so flustered that what Spanish I had learned got me nowhere here. He wanted me to pay for using the Internet. I was totally baffled and angry at the same time that I had little to fight back with. His words continued to fly and morphed into something about “Policia!” I said “fine, Policia por favor!” And he yelled OK and headed towards the door. At this point, Nick was becoming scared and exclaimed, “Adam don’t get worked up, just pay the guy. You don’t want to go to jail over this!” Of course I ignored him and waited for the next entourage of policia. Fifteen minutes passed, and no sign of him. Nick asked me to get Neil to call our shipping company for an urgent message. The problem? Neil was at Heiss’ café. Regardless, I went over there. When I entered, the nazi came up to me and was yelling and demanding his money. Through the occasional moment of comprehension while the moronic English-speaking assistant looked on, I managed to gather that he wanted 1 peso for using the computer. He said that the meter started when we sat down, despite the fact that we never used the thing. I said that was his problem not mine, and then he hit the roof. At that point I had the assistant translate. In the end I was told to leave if I didn’t have any money. I left, went back to the small café, and talked to Nick about it. From our brief discussion I learned that Nick had actually logged on while trying to configure his laptop computer, hence the Internet charge. So after all that I went through, and the surrender pleas from Nick, it was all his doing. Weasle!

For 14 days Colin and I edited together a video for Nick and ourselves in Buenas Aires and a few days in Rio. It’s a concise, five-minute piece that is plastered with “money-shots” and cheesy music. You can see it at www.drivearoundtheworld.com (click on “Movie” at the top).
Once we got started, Colin was a pretty hard worker…I guess he’s just got a bad starter motor. Now we have something to show different people. Recently, Land Rover has expressed interest in pitching the project to several channels and shows. We’ll see what becomes of that one pretty soon…

Help support our cause: The LONGITUDE Expedition is the longest journey ever attempted with a focus on Parkinson's Disease. The Drive Around the World team aims to raise money for Parkinson’s Disease research by driving four certified pre-owned Land Rover Discoverys around the globe following lines of longitude. Readers are encouraged to pledge small amounts of money per expedition-kilometer via a pledge form that can be found on our Parkinson’s page by clicking here. 100% of donations received go directly to Parkinson's research and all who donate $10 or more will be entered into a raffle to win an expedition-equipped Land Rover Discovery.

Posted by Nancy Olson at 12:20 PM
View/Add Comments (0) | Category: 17-Waiting for Vehicles to Ship, Part I

February 23, 2004

Nancy's last day in Argentina


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The International Date Line is an imaginary line on the earth's surface that approximately coincides with the 180th meridian (LONGITUDE), and separates the calendar date. Traveling east across the line takes the traveler back one day; traveling west takes the traveler forward one day. Without the date line, calendar confusion would result for the traveler. With the date line, Nancy lost an entire day when travelling to Australia from Argentina!

Journal by Nancy Olson

Today is Todd’s birthday. I woke up around mid-morning, and he and I headed out into the city of Buenos Aires for breakfast. His main mission was food; mine was finding an Internet café and a trailer for my bike tour.

We walked for 15 or 20 minutes before deciding on a place on Florida Street called “The American Café.” I mentioned that I was thinking of ordering a calzone, and Todd decided that sounded pretty good. They were about 14 pesos, though, and I decided to wait and get one at Speedy Pizza for 3 pesos. As it turns out, I ended up eating a slice of Todd’s crazy sausage-egg-cheese concoction (Boiled egg in a calzone? Honestly!). His “chico” was bigger than his head! It was big enough to feed three people, and the crust was heavenly!

Later, at the hotel, we hooked up with Nick and Chanda to depart by taxi to the house they had rented for the month. Todd and they are planning on working, while I’m planning to bike down the East Coast of Australia.

Once we had dropped our bags, we headed out to the streets to locate a bar for Todd’s birthday beer. Everything was closed, even at 4:00 p.m., so we went to the mall (Pacifico Mall) food court. Nick’s quesadilla was better than anything we’d eaten in Mexico—ask Chanda.

Later, something wonderful happened: Todd handed Chanda and me his ID and credit card and asked us to buy him some clothes that would be appealing to the ladies. We were personal shoppers! We labored for a couple of hours searching for the perfect items. In the end, we had two Mistral shirts, dark blue jeans, black shoes, and a button-down, black, short-sleeved shirt. Perfect! And all for under $100!

We found Nick and Todd in an Irish pub, and Todd put on the jeans, shoes, and black shirt. They fit like a dream, and he looked HOT! He was transformed. I feel so happy for him and his great new look.

After a beer, I had to rush back to the apartment to catch a cab to the airport. My flight was at midnight on Aerolineas Argentinas.

I had a pleasant ride to the airport, arriving with plenty of time to get my bike box wrapped in protective plastic, check my bags, have a gander at the duty-free shops, and board my flight, which had an intermediate stop in Aukland, New Zealand.

On the plane, I met a backpacker we had chatted with at Machu-Picchu! She was sitting just one aisle over. What a small world!

The flight was uneventful, with four wonderful movies that I slept right through. Just east of New Zealand, at about 12 noon Buenos Aires time and four a.m. New Zealand time, we crossed the International Date Line. Just like that, in the blink of an eye, we lost Monday entirely. I lost an entire day! I reset my watch for the 24th, and we just sort of skipped out on the 23rd.

Thirteen hours after take-off, we touched down in Aukland for an hour layover. After that, it was just a 3.5-hour hop over to Sydney. I passed through customs quickly and started calling hostels. It was 9:30 a.m.

I ended up at Kangaroo Backpackers in Surry Hills. I set out to find “Cheeky Monkey Multisport”, finally arriving by bus and purchasing cycle shorts and a jersey from nice shop-owner Adam. I’m out of luck for finding a bike trailer, though, so I resorted to ordering one online. I also booked a flight to Cairns and reserved a hostel room there.

I had some wonderful Indian curry and nan (bread) for dinner and went to bed early. Actually, I fell asleep in my clothes while reading my Lonely Planet Australia guidebook.

Tomorrow: Cairns!

Help support our cause: The LONGITUDE Expedition is the longest journey ever attempted with a focus on Parkinson's Disease. The Drive Around the World team aims to raise money for Parkinson’s Disease research by driving four certified pre-owned Land Rover Discoverys around the globe following lines of longitude. Readers are encouraged to pledge small amounts of money per expedition-kilometer via a pledge form that can be found on our Parkinson’s page by clicking here. 100% of donations received go directly to Parkinson's research and all who donate $10 or more will be entered into a raffle to win an expedition-equipped Land Rover Discovery.

Posted by Nancy Olson at 04:27 AM
View/Add Comments (0) | Category: 16-Nancy's East Coast of Oz Bike Trip
Buenos Aires: A city of beauties


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Tango dancers take to the streets in Buenos Aires.
(Photo by Neil Dana)

[Journal by Neil Dana]

Buenos Aires is definetely an amazing city! It is the ulitimate for a cosmopolitan lifestyle. People here love to dress up and look good. And boy o boy, do the people here look phenomenal. I am referring more to the women of Argentina. They are famous for being some of the most beautiful women in the world, and now having visited Buenos Aires, I would have to agree. I don't have any pictures, though; I usually don't go around snapping pictures of snazzy women walking around the city. I might get in trouble.

However, I did meet two cool girls today while I was eating lunch. They happened to be from Mexico, which was a nice change of pace from speaking to Argentinians the whole time. Argentines use many different Spanish words and have a very unique accent, which is the most difficult to understand of all the Latin countries we have been too. Anyway, these two girls were in Buenos Aires because they were on the "Fear Factor" show for Argentina, ha ha. That is pretty funny. One of them had already lost and had just had her last day on the show. The other girl was one of the finalists and was ready for tomorrow, the last day of the show. It wasn't a bad deal; they got flown out to Argentina, everything paid for, and the winner gets paid $10,000. Good luck!

Our days in Argentina have been pretty relaxing. I have been walking around Buenos Aires checking out all the shops everywhere. There is so much leather around it is wild. It is as if we were in Cusco, where all the people were ushering us into bars at night, but here we are given fliers and cues to follow people into their leather store. I didn't buy anything, but I can see why many people do. The prices are incredibly inexpensive. And talking about the cost being low, how about the Food!!!! Oh yes, the food in Buenos Aires is from heaven. I ate a meal with a prawn appetizer, glass of red wine, a selection of bread and mineral water, a main entree of a delicious filet mignon, and a chocolate fudge brownie with ice cream and some coffee, all for only $10. This was all in a fancy restaurant, too.

Our dollar is very strong in Argentina. About three years ago, they lost 2/3 of their own currency overnight. Because of this, Argentina has become extremely affordable for foreigners to come and visit. The economy now is doing better, and due to the low costs, there are tons of tourists year-round who come and buy merchandise and food and boost the economy. And now, since it is very difficult for the locals to travel outside of Argentina due to their dollar being worth less, they are travelling more within their own country, thus helping boost the economy.

If I were a city guy, I would love to live in Buenos Aires. It is a magical city. There are people in the streets dancing tango, people enjoy going out very late at night until the early hours of the AM, and there is always something to do. The people are very friendly, too. I give my thumbs up to B.A. You need to come and experience the famous Argentine steak in Buenos Aires sometime too, it is a real treat. Well, this is my last blog until I am in Brazil.

Caio,

Neil

Logbook for February 23rd Day 115
Start: Buenos Aires, Argentina
: 34*33.000
W: 58*30.000
Finish: Buenos Aires, Argentina
S: 34*33.000
W: 58*30.000
Mileage: N/A
Notes: The team is starting to spread out. Nancy is on her way to Australia, and the rest of the team is getting ready to take up temporary residence in Brazil and Argentina.(N.O.)

Help support our cause: The LONGITUDE Expedition is the longest journey ever attempted with a focus on Parkinson's Disease. The Drive Around the World team aims to raise money for Parkinson’s Disease research by driving four certified pre-owned Land Rover Discoverys around the globe following lines of longitude. Readers are encouraged to pledge small amounts of money per expedition-kilometer via a pledge form that can be found on our Parkinson’s page by clicking here. 100% of donations received go directly to Parkinson's research and all who donate $10 or more will be entered into a raffle to win an expedition-equipped Land Rover Discovery.

Posted by Nancy Olson at 12:42 AM
View/Add Comments (0) | Category: 14-Argentina journals

February 22, 2004

Welcome to our newest category


rovers_to_aust.jpg

[Above: The Drive Around the World team prepares to bid farewell to their vehicles, which will be on a wallenius Wilhelmsen ship for six weeks.]
(Photo by Neil Dana)

While LONGITUDE's 2003 Certified, Pre-Owned, Discovery expedition vehicles are on a Wallenius Wilhelmsen ship for a six-week voyage to Brisbane, Australia, Drive Around the World teammembers are planning separate adventures of their own.

Nick and Chanda, winners of the team's "Hardest Workers" and "Most Appreciated" awards, have rented an apartment in a nice Buenos Aires neighborhood for a month. There, they will work on team sponsorships, fundraising, www.drivearoundtheworld.com, and expedition logistics.

Todd, winner of the team's "Most Underappreciated" award, and close runner-up for "Hardest Worker," will join Nick and Chanda to work on the LONGITUDE Education program. He will also be working on fundraising for Parkinson's Disease. Later, he might visit friends in Chile and will take several side excursions to destinations unknown.

Adam, Colin, and Neil, the "film guys," will hole themselves up in a hotel for several days to edit together some of the footage they have been shooting. Later, they will enjoy Carnival in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. After Carnival, they will seek out some surfing in a few of South America's hot spots.

While seeking out adventure, Justin will also be working hard on some of the team's media and logistical requirements. First, though, he will visit Brazil and Carnival with the film guys. After that, he will follow his free spirit wherever it takes him.

Nancy is planning to fly to Cairns, a tourist destination located in north-eastern Australia, gateway to the Great Barrier Reef. There, she will hole up for a week of editing work before setting off down the East Coast by bike. She plans to bike 1100 miles down the coast to Brisbane on her Santa Cruz mountain bike, camping equipment and gear towed behind in a B.O.B. bicycle trailer.

At the end of March/beginning of April, the team will meet up again in Brisbane, Australia. There, they will have a reunion with one another and with their dearly beloved Certified, Pre-Owned Land Rovers.

Don't stop looking for journals. If all goes well, Nancy will be posting updates and photos from the team as she receives them. If she doesn't receive them, all you readers will continue to suffer with nothing but Nancy's relentless banter to read.

Help support our cause: The LONGITUDE Expedition is the longest journey ever attempted with a focus on Parkinson's Disease. The Drive Around the World team aims to raise money for Parkinson’s Disease research by driving four certified pre-owned Land Rover Discoverys around the globe following lines of longitude. Readers are encouraged to pledge small amounts of money per expedition-kilometer via a pledge form that can be found on our Parkinson’s page by clicking here. 100% of donations received go directly to Parkinson's research and all who donate $10 or more will be entered into a raffle to win an expedition-equipped Land Rover Discovery.

Posted by Nancy Olson at 10:30 PM
View/Add Comments (0) | Category: 17-Waiting for Vehicles to Ship, Part I
One teammie goes to Oz


use this dateln.gif

The International Date Line is an imaginary line on the earth's surface that approximately coincides with the 180th meridian (LONGITUDE), and separates the calendar date. Traveling east across the line takes the traveler back one day; traveling west takes the traveler forward one day. Without the date line, calendar confusion would result for the traveler. With the date line, Nancy lost an entire day when travelling to Australia from Argentina!

Journal by Nancy Olson

Today is Todd’s birthday. I woke up around mid-morning, and he and I headed out into the city of Buenos Aires for breakfast. His main mission was food; mine was finding an Internet café and a trailer for my bike tour.

We walked for 15 or 20 minutes before deciding on a place on Florida Street called “The American Café.” I mentioned that I was thinking of ordering a calzone, and Todd decided that sounded pretty good. They were about 14 pesos, though, and I decided to wait and get one at Speedy Pizza for 3 pesos. As it turns out, I ended up eating a slice of Todd’s crazy sausage-egg-cheese concoction (Boiled egg in a calzone? Honestly!). His “chico” was bigger than his head! It was big enough to feed three people, and the crust was heavenly!

Later, at the hotel, we hooked up with Nick and Chanda to depart by taxi to the house they had rented for the month. Todd and they are planning on working, while I’m planning to bike down the East Coast of Australia.

Once we had dropped our bags, we headed out to the streets to locate a bar for Todd’s birthday beer. Everything was closed, even at 4:00 p.m., so we went to the mall (Pacifico Mall) food court. Nick’s quesadilla was better than anything we’d eaten in Mexico—ask Chanda.

Later, something wonderful happened: Todd handed Chanda and me his ID and credit card and asked us to buy him some clothes that would be appealing to the ladies. We were personal shoppers! We labored for a couple of hours searching for the perfect items. In the end, we had two Mistral shirts, dark blue jeans, black shoes, and a button-down, black, short-sleeved shirt. Perfect! And all for under $100!

We found Nick and Todd in an Irish pub, and Todd put on the jeans, shoes, and black shirt. They fit like a dream, and he looked HOT! He was transformed. I feel so happy for him and his great new look.

After a beer, I had to rush back to the apartment to catch a cab to the airport. My flight was at midnight on Aerolineas Argentinas.

I had a pleasant ride to the airport, arriving with plenty of time to get my bike box wrapped in protective plastic, check my bags, have a gander at the duty-free shops, and board my flight, which had an intermediate stop in Aukland, New Zealand.

On the plane, I met a backpacker we had chatted with at Machu-Picchu! She was sitting just one aisle over. What a small world!

The flight was uneventful, with four wonderful movies that I slept right through. Just east of New Zealand, at about 12 noon Buenos Aires time and four a.m. New Zealand time, we crossed the International Date Line. Just like that, in the blink of an eye, we lost Monday entirely. I lost an entire day! I reset my watch for the 24th, and we just sort of skipped out on the 23rd.

Thirteen hours after take-off, we touched down in Aukland for an hour layover. After that, it was just a 3.5-hour hop over to Sydney. I passed through customs quickly and started calling hostels. It was 9:30 a.m.

I ended up at Kangaroo Backpackers in Surry Hills. I set out to find “Cheeky Monkey Multisport”, finally arriving by bus and purchasing cycle shorts and a jersey from nice shop-owner Adam. I’m out of luck for finding a bike trailer, though, so I resorted to ordering one online. I also booked a flight to Cairns and reserved a hostel room there.

I had some wonderful Indian curry and nan (bread) for dinner and went to bed early. Actually, I fell asleep in my clothes while reading my Lonely Planet Australia guidebook.

Tomorrow: Cairns!


Logbook for February 22nd Day 114
Start: Buenos Aires, Argentina
: 34*33.000
W: 58*30.000
Finish: Buenos Aires, Argentina
S: 34*33.000
W: 58*30.000
Mileage: N/A
Notes: The team is still in Buenos Aires. The most important thing about 22 February is that TODAY IS TODD'S BIRTHDAY! Happy birthday, Todd! This morning, he and I woke up and walked around the city until we found a place to eat, "American Diner." Todd ordered a Calzone as big as his face, and I helped him eat it. Then he mentioned that it's his birthday. OH! Shucks! I knew that, but I totally forgot. Happy birthday, Buddy. Calzone's on me! In the afternoon, Nick, Chanda, and Todd moved into their new apartment. It will be home for a month. Later, we went out for Todd's birthday beer, and he gave Chanda and me his credit card with instructions to buy him something nice to wear. We hooked him up with shoes, jeans, and three shirts...all for barely more than $100! He looks hot in his jeans and black shirt. I ended the party early by rushing off to catch my flight to Sydney. What will we all do without our teammies? (N.O.)

Help support our cause: The LONGITUDE Expedition is the longest journey ever attempted with a focus on Parkinson's Disease. The Drive Around the World team aims to raise money for Parkinson’s Disease research by driving four certified pre-owned Land Rover Discoverys around the globe following lines of longitude. Readers are encouraged to pledge small amounts of money per expedition-kilometer via a pledge form that can be found on our Parkinson’s page by clicking here. 100% of donations received go directly to Parkinson's research and all who donate $10 or more will be entered into a raffle to win an expedition-equipped Land Rover Discovery.

Posted by Nancy Olson at 10:17 PM
View/Add Comments (0) | Category: 14-Argentina journals

February 21, 2004

Work and Time


DSCN3168 guard at memorial wall.jpg
A guard minds his post at the wall of a memorial in Buenos Aires.

Journal and photos by Justin Mounts


I haven’t been in a car for four days. I mean four whole days. No cars, no traffic, no borders, no maps scattered across my dashboard and lap. My GPS is stored in my backpack, now silent. My radio has been safely packed up and is on the slow boat to China—I mean Australia. I have even slept in the same bed four nights in a row, that is, when I have actually gone to bed. For the next 6 weeks, I have nothing but work and time.

Where do I begin?

Buenos Aires is a city that is filled with incredible beauty, not only its architecture and parks, but also its people. I have had my jaw dropped in many places on this earth, but I would be lying if I didn’t say I've found the winner. The women in Buenos Aires not only turn heads, but they also make you stop in your tracks—literally. When you walk down the street, you have to be careful not to run into men standing still on the sidewalk, dazed by another passerby. Now, the qualifying statemen: Argentines also have the attitude to back up the beauty. You will have better luck at winning the lottery than you will have starting a conversation with one of these goddesses. My advice is to save your breath and keep buying your weekly lottery tickets. While you’re at it, buy one for me, too.

I am very happy to be here, because I always find cities more interesting than beach resorts. And large cities like Buenos Aires are particularly interesting to me, because I get the opportunity to observe and participate in its unique lifecycle. For a brief instance in time, I get to try to find out as much as I can about the qualities that make it tick. Of note here, it has nightclubs that close at 5:00 AM, steaks that will make the most faithful vegetarian crave a little bit of cannibalistic gluttony, and a requisite community of street performers that always seem to find a new angle for extracting a little bit of change from my pocket. For me, part of truly experiencing a city is to not only breathe it in with the suit-and-tie crowd during business hours, but also to feel the city’s pulse after these folks have long retired for the night.

Buenos Aires is also the home of the Tango. Given all of this information, how am I to make the most of my short time here? Well, tonight the team is going out for a celebratory dinner, capping off the last 113 days. Our destination is a place called Senor Tango’s, located in probably the most undesirable neighborhood in Buenos Aires, whose name I don’t even know. The show has hired doormen who keep the crowd that arrives early from leaving the immediate 50-square-foot area in front of the theatre. Literally, the neighborhood is that bad. But Senor Tango’s is rumored to be the birthplace of the Tango, and it has hosted countless people since its opening. After the show, I understood why.

The Tango is an incredibly sad, yet romantic dance. The music evokes incredible passion and emotion from anyone who hears it, and to observe this combination of movement and sound can only be described as a roller coaster ride that combines stiletto heels and heartbreak. In an instant it is sensual and sexy, yet every move is consumed by sorrow and devastation. I also find it educational, and for me, it also evokes a new understanding. It is an understanding of the pride felt by the Argentine people for their history. It is an understanding of the subtle sadness that each of them seems to have and can be observed if you watch them closely.

Earlier in the day, I explored a part of the city that all Argentines eventually visit, and some stay forever. It is the fabled cemetery for anybody who is anybody in Argentina, and it is the burial place of Eva Peron. I couldn’t find her grave, but I didn’t really try that hard. And it doesn’t really matter. The fact that she is buried here had nothing to do with my visit. I find that cemeteries are important to visit regardless of who is buried there, and even the smallest of cemeteries always make for points of reflection along my way. They are always filled with ancient monuments that capture the morbid and dark beauty of a city or culture, and they are filled with a lot of people who probably spent too much time at work, and not enough time enjoying life. It is unimportant to me whether they were rich or poor, or where they are buried, because they’re all doing the same thing now. I guess visiting these landmarks reiterates the shortness and uncertainty of life. And I think everyone needs that reminder from time to time.

Work and time.

These are things we all have, whether we’re in Washington, D.C., Wichita, Kansas or Buenos Aires, Argentina. In my former life, I learned that my office is wherever I happen to be talking on the phone or plugged into my laptop. Some things never change. The only difference now, after three-and-a-half months of a traveling, world education, is that I better understand the importance of making the most of my time first.

Until next time, I wish you all well from the far side of the world.


Logbook for February 21st, Day 113
Start: Buenos Aires, Argentina
: 34*33.000
W: 58*30.000
Finish: Buenos Aires, Argentina
S: 34*33.000
W: 58*30.000
Mileage: N/A
Notes: Today was sort of a recovery day after last night's team party. (N.O.)

Help support our cause: The LONGITUDE Expedition is the longest journey ever attempted with a focus on Parkinson's Disease. The Drive Around the World team aims to raise money for Parkinson’s Disease research by driving four certified pre-owned Land Rover Discoverys around the globe following lines of longitude. Readers are encouraged to pledge small amounts of money per expedition-kilometer via a pledge form that can be found on our Parkinson’s page by clicking here. 100% of donations received go directly to Parkinson's research and all who donate $10 or more will be entered into a raffle to win an expedition-equipped Land Rover Discovery.

Posted by Nancy Olson at 07:32 AM
View/Add Comments (0) | Category: 14-Argentina journals

February 20, 2004

A team that tangos together...


tango.jpg

[Above: The team enjoyed an evening at Senor Tango's, where they saw professionals tearing up the dance floor.]
Journal by Colin McAuliffe, Photo by Neil Dana

Last Days of Argentina

Im here in Buenos Aires having a blast. Adam and I are going to work
on a quick video for Nick, our leader, to show to sponsors. The cars
are on the boat and now Im free to do whatever I want,so, Im going to
brazil. I figure a month there should definately calm things down a
bit. Since I am an american, it is costing me 110 dollars to get into
brazil, but i think it will be worth it. Also, I ran out of pages in
my passport, so I had to get some new ones at the US embassy before I
could get my Brazillian visa, but now that is all taken care of and I
am basically free. Tonight the team goes to a tango performance and
then all I have to do is finish that promo video, and then I'm free!

-Colin


Logbook for February 20th, Day 112
Start: Buenos Aires, Argentina
: 34*33.000
W: 58*30.000
Finish: Buenos Aires, Argentina
S: 34*33.000
W: 58*30.000
Mileage: N/A
Notes: Today we all did our own thing, including a lot of work. This evening, Nick and Chanda treated everybody to an amazing night out at the famous Senor Tango, a dinner and tango show in an old converted fire station. It was an amazing show. The dancing, the music, the accordion playing...it was phenomenal. Thank you, thank you, Nick and Chanda, for a night we will never forget. The evening served as a sort of end-of-the-first-third-of-our-journey celebration. It was also a sort of farewell, as we will all be going to the winds soon while our vehicles make their way to Australia. After Senor Tango, we all went out and did some salsa dancing. (N.O.)

Help support our cause: The LONGITUDE Expedition is the longest journey ever attempted with a focus on Parkinson's Disease. The Drive Around the World team aims to raise money for Parkinson’s Disease research by driving four certified pre-owned Land Rover Discoverys around the globe following lines of longitude. Readers are encouraged to pledge small amounts of money per expedition-kilometer via a pledge form that can be found on our Parkinson’s page by clicking here. 100% of donations received go directly to Parkinson's research and all who donate $10 or more will be entered into a raffle to win an expedition-equipped Land Rover Discovery.

Posted by Nancy Olson at 07:29 AM
View/Add Comments (0) | Category: 14-Argentina journals

February 19, 2004

Hello, Buenos Aires!


beunosaires.jpg


[Above: Buenos Aires, Argentina, at night ]
(Photo by Neil Dana)

Journal by Nancy Olson

This morning, we awoke in time to have ourselves and our luggage ready to jump into a hired van that was standing ready to take us from our Palace Hotel in Azul to our hotel in Buenos Aires.

After quite a bit of bickering with the driver, who was incapable of achieving efficiency in packing, we finally realized that our weight problem (he had said eight people, plus all of our baggage, were too heavy for his van, and that we would need another) would go away if we offered him an additional 20 pesos.

We all packed in just fine and had a comfortable ride to Buenos Aires. On the way, we brainstormed ways of meeting our Feb. fundraising goal of $25,000. The bottom line is, we need to compel more people to go to our website and donate. The question is, how? It's a question we will be trying to answer during the final 5 months of our expedition.

When we arrived in Buenos Aires, I busied myself in the quest to find affordable airfare to Australia. As we were making our marathon drive from Ushuaia to Azul, I decided I will fly to Australia with my Santa Cruz mountain bike to cycle the east coast, from Cairns to Brisbane, while our vehicles are in transit. Other team members are heading for Brazil (Adam, Colin, Neil, Justin) or staying in B.A. (Todd and Baggarlys). More on all that in a future update.

As it turns out, flights to Oz are super-expensive, and I'm feeling a little discouraged about my big plan. I will still carry it out, however, as I have already fallen in love with the notion of biking 1100 miles down Australia's beautiful coastline.

G'day, ya'll,

Nancy

Logbook for February 19th, Day 111
Start: Zarate, Argentina
S: 34*05.879
W: 59*01.341
Finish: Buenos Aires, Argentina
S: 34*33.000
W: 58*30.000
Mileage: N/A
Notes: We met our van at 10:00 a.m. and somehow managed to get everybody and everything inside of it. During the hour-long drive, we had a brainstorming meeting to try to find ways of reaching our fundraising goals. There's a lot of work for us to do, yet. We arrived at our hotel in downtown Buenos Aires in time for Justin and the film guys, Colin, Neil, and Adam, to go to the Brazilian embassy to apply for visas so they can go to Carnival. We got settled into our hotel and did a little exploring in the city. (N.O.)

Help support our cause: The LONGITUDE Expedition is the longest journey ever attempted with a focus on Parkinson's Disease. The Drive Around the World team aims to raise money for Parkinson’s Disease research by driving four certified pre-owned Land Rover Discoverys around the globe following lines of longitude. Readers are encouraged to pledge small amounts of money per expedition-kilometer via a pledge form that can be found on our Parkinson’s page by clicking here. 100% of donations received go directly to Parkinson's research and all who donate $10 or more will be entered into a raffle to win an expedition-equipped Land Rover Discovery.

Posted by Nancy Olson at 07:21 AM
View/Add Comments (0) | Category: 14-Argentina journals

February 18, 2004

Bon Voyage to the CPO Discoverys!


loading.jpg

[Above: The Drive Around the World team drives their four Certified, Pre-Owned Discovery vehicles onto a Willenius Wilhelmsen ship, the Hume Highway, for passage to Australia.]
(Photos by Neil Dana)

Journal by Todd Borgie

Finally, after years of dreaming, planning, and execution, we have reached one of our first major milestones on this expedition: sending the vehicles to Australia. Although we love traveling in the vehicles, the whole team has looked forward to our forecast 6-week break from the daily rigors of the expedition, especially the grueling last month. Neil has talked about going to Brazil from the day I met him, and with a big smile on his face he realizes the day has almost arrived for him to go. There’s just this one last task to do.

Although it might seem easy to put a vehicle on the boat, there are really a lot of things to consider. There are three major ways to ship a vehicle: LoLo (load on/load off), when the vehicles are loaded by crane, RoRo (roll on/roll off), when the vehicles are driven on and off the ship, and finally container shipping, where the vehicles are loaded into a container (like the trailer bed of a semi). The most common type of vehicles that are shipped are vehicles straight from the factory. In this case, everything in or on the vehicle is bolted or screwed down, so LoLo or RoRo is the most practical. In our case, however, our cars are loaded with gear, so RoRo or LoLo is not the best option for us. You have to remember that if they are driving the cars on and off the ships, the car is going to be open for a certain amount to time, and this is a significant security risk.

On the last expedition, we learned the hard way. After driving around the world and having no problems, our vehicles were robbed in New Jersey. Although we had been subtly warned, we didn’t want to have to carry everything with us while we crossed the Atlantic by plane, so we left quite a bit of stuff in the vehicles. Yes, we lost lots of stuff, but the most amazing story was the story of the videotapes. All the videos we had shot over the course of the expedition were stolen! Yes, we were dumb to leave these tapes in the vehicles. We could blame one another for leaving them there, but nothing changed the fact that they were gone. Nick did what he could to get them back, but we resigned ourselves to lamenting their absence. Eleven months later, Nick received a phone call from a fellow in the New Jersey port. Apparently, he had seen the reward signs and was holding the right information. He quickly shipped us the tapes, and we still remain delighted and amazed. Anyway, lesson learned.

Container shipping is what we prefer, as the vehicles are locked and sealed into a freight container, and the only people holding the keys are the property owners. When the ship arrives, you go down, do the paper work, open the container for the customs people, and then you are on your way (sounds more simple than it actually is; sometimes this can take days). If we have a container, we can pack all of our valuable belongings into the vehicles, knowing that they will be safe; furthermore, we would not have to lug around extra things. When you know your stuff is safe, it is nice to only tote a small bag around, as now you are relying on subways, taxis and buses.

Our freight forwarder, Mercomar, did everything possible to obtain a container for us, but this was not a container ship. Cargo ships are laid out to hold the maximum amount of cargo. Our ship, the Hume Highway, would be holding more then 3,000 cars. There was not a convenient place to put a container that would not interrupt the flow of loading and unloading of the other cargo. It is amazing how fast they can load this amount of cargo; this ship would be loaded in about 6 hours.

We needed to be to the port by 6:00pm. The team spent the morning and afternoon buying chains, cables, and locks to secure our gear, packing and repacking gear so it would safely and securely under the locks and chains we had purchased. The best thing to do would have been to remove everything from the vehicles, as I mentioned earlier, but this was not the practical thing. We have big bins of camping gear, parts, office supplies, and other assorted bulky items. It would have been frightfully expensive to ship separately (most likely it would not have been accepted on an airplane), and a huge pain to deal with, so we decided to take our chance. We removed everything that couldn’t be replaced but left most of the gear. Also, to increase security, Nick made an agreement with the shipping company. This agreement was for the Captain to keep a special eye on the vehicles, and they agreed that he would be the sole person in possession of the keys to the vehicles. This was also important because this ship was due to arrive in Manzanilla, Panama, March 9, the day our other ship was to leave for Brisbane. This is cutting it close, but it was the best thing available. Arrangements were made in order to secure a quick release of the vehicles once the ship arrived in Panama.

Six p.m. rolled around, and we set off for the port. The whole team went along, as we had made arrangements to film the vehicles boarding the Hume Highway. It was loading time for the ship, so we saw the thousands of cars, which, yesterday, were sitting in the parking lot, buzzing onto the ship. We drove the Land Rovers onto the second floor of what must have been a six-story ship. I was totally impressed with this ship! The floors were almost clean enough to eat off of! The people were great, and the cars were secured off to the side. I must admit they looked pretty cool, loaded and waiting for their next adventure.

We bid the vehicles good-bye, and all walked off the ship like we had just completed a mission to the moon. It was kind of a weird feeling, as we now had to flag taxis back to town.

We spent the remainder of the night eating Argentinean meat at a Parilla. This place is packed full of meat, steaks, sausages innards, you name it. All will be served up here, and cheap! We just can’t figure out why people aren’t huge here. We have much to do over the course of the next 6 weeks, so the team looked ahead and began developing strategies for how we could go into the second half with renewed energy and efficiency.


Logbook for February 18th, Day 110
Start: Buenos Aires, Argentina
: 34*33.000
W: 58*30.000
Finish: Buenos Aires, Argentina
S: 34*33.000
W: 58*30.000
Mileage: N/A
Notes: We miss our vehicles. It's hard to believe we'll be without them for 6 weeks. To mark the occassion, we all went to a "tenedor libre", or all-you-can-eat steakhouse for dinner. We ate all kinds of weird meat, including blood sausage, intestines, some other icky organ, and some other nasty stuff. Tomorrow, we head to Buenos Aires. (N.O.)

Help support our cause: The LONGITUDE Expedition is the longest journey ever attempted with a focus on Parkinson's Disease. The Drive Around the World team aims to raise money for Parkinson’s Disease research by driving four certified pre-owned Land Rover Discoverys around the globe following lines of longitude. Readers are encouraged to pledge small amounts of money per expedition-kilometer via a pledge form that can be found on our Parkinson’s page by clicking here. 100% of donations received go directly to Parkinson's research and all who donate $10 or more will be entered into a raffle to win an expedition-equipped Land Rover Discovery.

Posted by Nancy Olson at 07:14 AM
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February 17, 2004

Everything but the kitchen sink


17 Feb.jpg
The team drives their Certified Discoverys in through the stern of the Hume Highway. This is ro-ro shipping. Roll 'em on, roll 'em off.

Journal by Adam Burgess, photo by Neil Dana

We spent a few days outside of Buenas Aires in the suburb of Zarate, close to the shipping port. It was considerably calmer here, and it offered me the time to begin soaking up what Argentina has to offer. It quickly became evident that the women are strikingly more beautiful here than almost everywhere I’ve been. Even the less attractive women have figures and dress in a style that draws your attention. Eyes dart everywhere, as the national pastime appears to be eye flirting. Seldom will you find a person overweight despite the lack of apparent exercise.

We spent most of the time preparing the Land Rovers for their 40-day ship ride to Australia. Unfortunately, we discovered quickly that our shipping sponsor only offers roll-on-roll-off, or “ro-ro”, service. This means that they have no containers for the cars, which results in no protection against theft, and if you saw the inside of these rigs you’d understand why that would be a concern. Thousands of dollars worth of camera equipment, computer equipment, GPS, camping supplies, and clothes cover every square inch of available space. Nick broke the news to us the next day and said that we have to take everything with us out of the cars.

The three of us were headed for Brazil in a week, and the number of cases we had couldn’t be carried by seven people, let alone by three travelling alone. So the obvious answer was to do our best in securing what we do have in the back of the cars. Neil and I headed for the local hardware store and bought 60 feet of heavy chain and 5 locks. Back at the hotel, everyone ripped apart all four cars, cleaning them out entirely except for what we were to store in the back. Our Pelican camera cases made it easy for us to thread the chain through the handles and lock to the D-rings on the floor of the bed. The rest of our stuff, clothes, toys and guitars, were then covered in heavy-duty cardboard in which Colin cut several holes and threaded the last 10 feet of chain through and locked it down. The final stage was 10 feet of black plastic wrapped over the entire package to deter the “roll-off” driver in Panama or Australia from even considering dipping their hands in there. They have little time between rolling the cars off of the cargo ship and parking them in the lot for rummaging through your loose odds and ends, so hopefully this triple-wrap blob isn’t mistaken for a Christmas present.

Logbook for February 17th, Day 109
Start: Lujan, Argentina
Time: 9:30 a.m.
S: 34*33.627
W: 59*07.278
Finish: Zarate, Argentina
Time: 9:00 p.m.
S: 34*05.879
W: 59*01.341
Mileage: 169
Notes: We filmed the loading of our vehicles onto the Wallenius Wilhelmsen ship today. It was a special moment. We drove the vehicles aboard the giant floating parking lot amidst the hundreds of new cars headed for new-car lots and the beginning their life's voyage. Our vehicles are headed for the Panamal Canal and then Australia. We'll meet them there about the first of April. Bon Voyage, D1, D2, D3, and D4! We'll miss you! (N.O.)

Help support our cause: The LONGITUDE Expedition is the longest journey ever attempted with a focus on Parkinson's Disease. The Drive Around the World team aims to raise money for Parkinson’s Disease research by driving four certified pre-owned Land Rover Discoverys around the globe following lines of longitude. Readers are encouraged to pledge small amounts of money per expedition-kilometer via a pledge form that can be found on our Parkinson’s page by clicking here. 100% of donations received go directly to Parkinson's research and all who donate $10 or more will be entered into a raffle to win an expedition-equipped Land Rover Discovery.

Posted by Nancy Olson at 01:34 PM
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February 16, 2004

We made it!


rainbow.jpg

[Above: On the road to the port at Zarate, the team encountered an emmense rainbow.]

Journal and photos by Neil Dana

We have been on the road hard for the last two days now, and this is our last stretch towards Buenos Aires. We woke up this morning and it was raining, and, unfortunately, last night there were no signs of rain, so none of us put up our rainguards on our tents. So when we awoke, we all awoke to wet tent bottoms, pads, and sleeping bags. That's not always the greatest way to wake up, but oh well. We also woke up two hours later than expected, so we were already behind schedulel. The great thing is, none of us were in a bad mood. We were all ready to charge forward and get to Buenos Aires. We all welcome the challenge of driving nonstop for days on end to meet our shipping date. And to tell you the truth, it is really fun.

While on the road, we tell jokes, drink our mate tea and coffee, and also learn all kinds of new interesting information about the areas we are travelling through, as well as random trivia facts. It is really funny to see what people come up with to talk about after travelling with each other for 3 months, especially locked in cars together most of the time. With our radios, which span more than 10-20 miles at times, we can fall behind or get way ahead of each other and still communicate. It is awesome, and we never lose each other, which is always a convoy's worst nightmare.

What I really love the most about our long drives is the solitude. We are travelling together all the time and always doing group activities and talking and having great times; however, time alone is something I cherish as well. And when we are driving all day long for days on end, one gets plenty of solitude. Colin and I were driving together for this three-day stretch, and he would sleep in the back while I drove. And that is a perfect recipe, for two reasons. One, obviously, is so after 10 hours of me driving, he is well-rested and ready to take over. And the other reason is that while he is sleeping, I can get in my cruisin' music landscape mode. I adore soaking in the landscape and just looking at everything and being completely filled with amazement of where we are and all the beautiful surroundings. And coupled with groovy tunes, I am in paradise. It is very relaxing. In fact, many times when the team is playing games over the radio or doing other things on these long drives, I prefer to turn down the CB and eveyone else's voice, and get into a driving groove. And sometimes, I am the opposite, and get giddy and talk and talk and talk.

So anyway, we drove all day today and watched the landscape
change from desert brush to farmland and green fields, with towns growing bigger the further north we came. Half of the drive, it was raining, which slowed us down, yet the sky really filled up with beautiful clouds and colors. At one point, the sun was out to our left, and on the right side of the road was a huge rainbow that went from one end on the ground all the way up and down to the other side. It was beautiful. And, not only was there one amazing rainbow, but there was another rainbow on top of it, a bit more faint, but there. It was a wonderful moment.

As we kept heading north, the people were starting to have more fashion and style as well. We were entering a much more industrial and cosmopolitan area. We were under a time crunch as well today to drive about 700 miles, as well as stop for some time in a town that had internet so Justin and Nancy could get some information out online. Justin has an article that is being printed in the largest English newspaper in Argentina! And Nancy had some press releases to upload. And we accomplished both in a town a few hours outside of Santiago. The stop ended up taking us a couple of hours and by the time we were back on the road to head to Buenos Aires, it was almost midnight.

Also, while we were in the internet cafe, a local radio station reporter came up to us and wanted to interview us. So he interviewed me in Spanish and we were supposed to be on the radio that night. We weren't able to listen to the radio when we were supposed to air, we were all preoccupied with other activities. But I am sure many people in Argentina were listening and hopefully are on our website right now donating money to Parkinson's.

Around 11PM after we finished eating some yummy ice cream, we left the internet cafe and were on the road and heading to Buenos Aires. As we got closer, I was sleeping, and I guess I was talking outloud as I was dreaming of finding surf. Colin was laughing and telling everyone on the radio that I was telling him to look for Island Azul, and that I saw some waves that were really crowded, and to keep searching. I guess I can't get surfing off my mind, even when I am sleeping.

So we finally did reach Buenos Aires at around 3AM, and headed to a town called Zarate
, which is the port town from which we are shipping our vehicles. We found a hotel and crashed out. We were all exhausted from three days of nonstop driving. We were stoked to finally make it, and we were ecstatic to go to sleep. In fact, sleeping in a room with Colin and Justin, whom were both snoring in full force didn't even keep me awake at all. We made it!!

Now we are heading in a few different directions over the next month while our cars are at sea to Australia. I will be heading to Brasil and chasing Carnaval, Samba, and Surf, so until next time, Ciao!!!

Neil


Logbook for February 16th, Day 108
Start: East of Nuevo Leon, Argentina
Time: 9:00 a.m.
S: 40*42.829
W: 69*32.031
Finish: Lujan, Argentina
Time: 3:30 a.m.
S: 34*33.627
W: 59*07.278
Mileage: 628
Notes: Well, we made it! We drove for three days straight, and we covered 2000 miles, and we made it. We met with Merco Mar, who is handling the shipping of our vehicles for Wallenius Wilhelmsen. Everything is set. We will bring the vehicles to the port to bid them bon voyage tomorrow morning. We'll be without vehicles for six weeks! (N.O.)

Help support our cause: The LONGITUDE Expedition is the longest journey ever attempted with a focus on Parkinson's Disease. The Drive Around the World team aims to raise money for Parkinson’s Disease research by driving four certified pre-owned Land Rover Discoverys around the globe following lines of longitude. Readers are encouraged to pledge small amounts of money per expedition-kilometer via a pledge form that can be found on our Parkinson’s page by clicking here. 100% of donations received go directly to Parkinson's research and all who donate $10 or more will be entered into a raffle to win an expedition-equipped Land Rover Discovery.

Posted by Nancy Olson at 07:04 AM
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February 15, 2004

Day Two: Still driving!


motoringmate.jpg

[Above: Most folks don't realize the lengths designers at Land Rover will go to ensure worldwide acceptance. They formed the cup holders to hold anything from 7-11 Big Gulps, to Argentinean matte gourds.]

Logbook for February 15th, Day 107
Start: South of Rio Gallegos, Argentina
Time: 7:00 a.m.
S: 51*17.873
W: 69*32.031
Finish: East of Nuevo Leon, Argentina
Time: 1:45 a.m.
S: 40*42.829
W: 69*32.031
Mileage: 877 (no, that is not a typo)
Notes: We're still pushing for Buenos Aires and our shipping date. Still working and driving. And driving. We had to stop at an Internet cafe this evening, where we remained until after midnight, updating our website press room. Justin did a good job writing a dozen or more news releases. After the cafe, we continued driving until we found a place to camp, just a few hours down the road. Tomorrow, more driving. (N.O.)

Help support our cause: The LONGITUDE Expedition is the longest journey ever attempted with a focus on Parkinson's Disease. The Drive Around the World team aims to raise money for Parkinson’s Disease research by driving four certified pre-owned Land Rover Discoverys around the globe following lines of longitude. Readers are encouraged to pledge small amounts of money per expedition-kilometer via a pledge form that can be found on our Parkinson’s page by clicking here. 100% of donations received go directly to Parkinson's research and all who donate $10 or more will be entered into a raffle to win an expedition-equipped Land Rover Discovery.

Posted by Nancy Olson at 06:56 AM
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February 13, 2004

Drive Around the World reaches the End of the World

endoftheworldx.jpg

[Above: Drive Around the World vehicles stopped at an Argentine radio station at the southernmost tip of South America, where the road ends.]

Journal by Colin McAuliffe


Tierra Del fuego, the final frontier. These are the voyages of the non-profit organization Drive Around the World… Their mission; To boldly go where no expedition based on raising money for Parkinson’s Disease has gone before. Blah blah blah…you get my drift.

So we’ve done it. We’ve reached the end of the road. We are now at the southern point of South America, two hours outside of Ushaia, where the road abruptly ends. And where does it end you ask? Because, if I was you, I would ask that too, and figuring on you (the reader of this here publication) being an astute individual I am going to assume that you (the astute individual) will in fact be asking that question of which I mentioned previously. The answer is not glorious or triumphant, but it is pleasing, at least to me, and also in some ways not really surprising.

At the end of the road lies a smallish white structure with a blue roof situated along a cliff overlooking the Beagle Channel (named for Charles Darwin‘s exploratory naval vessel which passed this way in the 1830's). The blue and white flag, flying on a pole behind the structure matches the building‘s color scheme, because it is the flag of Argentina and the structure is owned by the government of Argentina. A small wooden sign, on two wooden posts, sits in front of the structure, and reads “Perfectura Naval DTO Moat”

The structure is in fact a naval watch station, where Argentinean naval personnel can monitor the sea-going traffic traveling through the channel. A few Argentine navy men man the station in the remote spot and rotate monthly between their home and their workplace. Their boss, an amicable individual invited us in, gave us a tour and let us brew some coffee to boost our spirits. In response we gifted a can of Land Rover coffee, A Drive Around the World T-shirt and some Red Bull for him to enjoy. He is a HAM radio enthusiast and was excited when Nick divulged that he too was a fan of the HAM. Call numbers were exchanged along with pleasantries.

Across the way from the station lies Picton Island, the ownership of which, in the seventies, nearly sparked a war between Argentina and Chile, however the Pope came down here and set the matter straight by telling Chile they could have the island, so that’s that. I don’t think the Argentineans really liked the decision, but they can’t really argue with the ambassador of God.

Today in fact, marks two momentous occasions, not only Drive Around the World reaching the end of the road, but also a beloved team member leaving. Rolf Justin Potts, travel writer by trade and party animal by night, will be taking his leave of us tomorrow, moving towards Rio, where he has yet another writing assignment. Such is the life of a professional traveler. We will miss him and his sense of humor, which I heartily enjoyed. At some point in the future I plan on hunting him down and sleeping on his couch until he gets sick of me and kicks me out; such is the life of an amateur freeloader.

So there you have it, yet another deposition from yours truly. Rest assured that there will be many more, however none will be the same as this one, because today I am in a rare literary mood.

Rock on,

Sir Colin
colin@drivearoundtheworld.com

Logbook for February 13th, Day 105
Start: Ushuaia, Argentina
Time: 11:30 a.m.
S: 54*48.861
W: 68*20.494
Finish: End of the Road, Beagle Canal, Moat, Argentina
Time: 7:30 p.m.
S: 54*48.399
W: 68*18.337
Mileage: 159
Notes: We drove to the end of the road at the end of the world. Have you ever read Shel Silverstein's "Where the Sidewalk Ends?" It pretty much looks like the cover art for that, only different. There's a naval radio station there, where we made two new friends, drank coffee, ate bread and jam, took sponsorship photos, enjoyed some Red Bull, used our Iridium and Telenor sat-phone to call sponsors, and then turned back around to return to Ushuaia. We were home by 6:30 p.m., and we moved right in to our new rented home. Later, we all met at an all-you-can eat (tenedor libre, in Espanol) steak house for Rolf's going-away dinner. We had grand plans for a party afterward, but Nick, after checking his e-mail, discovered that our shipping date has been moved up by three days. We have to start driving in the morning. No time for parties or for exploring the unexplored city of Ushuaia. We're in for a marathon drive. (N.O.)


Help support our cause: The LONGITUDE Expedition is the longest journey ever attempted with a focus on Parkinson's Disease. The Drive Around the World team aims to raise money for Parkinson’s Disease research by driving four certified pre-owned Land Rover Discoverys around the globe following lines of longitude. Readers are encouraged to pledge small amounts of money per expedition-kilometer via a pledge form that can be found on our Parkinson’s page by clicking here. 100% of donations received go directly to Parkinson's research and all who donate $10 or more will be entered into a raffle to win an expedition-equipped Land Rover Discovery.

Posted by Rolf Potts at 09:15 PM
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February 12, 2004

The world's southernmost city: Ushuaia

southmostcity.jpg

[Above: The sign speaks for itself]
Journal by Nancy Olson

We spent the night before last at Grandma's house. Well, Hospedaje Alicia's in Puerto Natales wasn't REALLY Grandma's, but it had a warm and inviting feel, and the kitchen smelled of fresh baking...and stew...

Alicia's was a bit of a contrast to where we awoke this morning in Rio Grande. We were in another hostel, but it wasn't so intimate, with bunkbeds and loud neighbors. But the poor elderly woman we'd rousted from her sleep at midnight to check us in was cheerful this morning, and were were warm, clean, and comfortable in our bunks.

We were slow to get moving this morning, choosing first to find a breakfast of chocolate, toast, and coffee, as well as a bank for changing Chilean money to Argentinian. Todd was kind enough to lend me a $50-peso bill that he had changed earlier, so I'm all set. I'll get him back when we hit a cambio later.

So, well after our scheduled 9:00 a.m. departure, we hit the road for a very windy drive east to Tierra del Fuego. Todd could barely keep the Discovery on the road, it was blowing so hard. We were driving across a flat and barren landscape, and, where rain water had flooded parts of a few fields, the wind created whitecaps on the puddles. After an hour-and-a-half or so of flat, barren fields, we hit mountains. Mountains, streams, and trees.

We wound up and around through high pass, and, as we drove, we filmed our convoy against backdrops of huge, ice-capped peaks. It was overcast, but it was beautiful. Such mountains!

Suddenly, at 2:22 p.m. on 2/12/04, the Drive Around the World LONGITUDE Expedition team arrived in the world's southernmost city: Ushuaia. For some reason, it reminded me of Alaska. Perhaps because of its ruggedness, its remoteness, or its "final frontier" feel.

Ushuaia is a port town, and it has a comfortable, outdoorsy quality. If it weren't so cold, I think I could live here for a while. It's summertime now, though, and I feel the winters must freeze the marrow of your bones. Brrrr!!! I can't imagine. We feel chilled each time the wind blows, and it is supposedly warm here now.

Well, our arrival caused quite a stir in town, of course, and we were happy to talk with a few curious people in town who had come to gawk at the four Certified, Pre-Owned Land Rover Discovery vehicles parked on the main street.

We all went in separate directions, some of us visiting internet cafes, others outdoor shops, souvenir shops (tourist traps), and the visitor center.

I had my passport and all of my postcards stamped with an "end of the world" stamp and then met Todd and the Baggarlys for lunch.

In the meantime, Colin and Neal had located a nice hostel for us just outside of town. We had a barracks-style, squad bay-esque bunkroom in the basement of the hostel, a house in a nice neighborhood. Everybody jumped to attention and sounded off Gomer Pyle-style when I walked into the room, and we all had a good laugh.

I found a single bed in the corner and located two huge wooden boards to put up as walls. I created my own little room, complete with a password.

Tomorrow, we will be driving to the end of the road and moving into a new house nearer the town's center.

Until next time,

Nancy

Logbook for February 12th, Day 104
Start: Rio Grande, Argentina
Time: 11:00 a.m.
S: 53*47.393
W: 67*42.505
Finish: Ushuaia, Argentina
Time: 6:45 p.m.
S: 54*48.861
W: 68*20.494
Mileage: 131
Notes: We didn't leave Rio Grande at 9:00 a.m., as we'd intended, because everybody went to breakfast and the bank. Once we were on the road again, we had a very windy drive East to Ushuaia. Our arrival at the world's southernmost city marks the ceremonial end of our southerly trek. (N.O.)

Help support our cause: The LONGITUDE Expedition is the longest journey ever attempted with a focus on Parkinson's Disease. The Drive Around the World team aims to raise money for Parkinson’s Disease research by driving four certified pre-owned Land Rover Discoverys around the globe following lines of longitude. Readers are encouraged to pledge small amounts of money per expedition-kilometer via a pledge form that can be found on our Parkinson’s page by clicking here. 100% of donations received go directly to Parkinson's research and all who donate $10 or more will be entered into a raffle to win an expedition-equipped Land Rover Discovery.

Posted by Nancy Olson at 01:01 AM
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February 11, 2004

We're in Chile--no, Argentina--no, Chile (it's Argentina)

totheend.jpg
[Above: Standing by to cross the Straits of Magellan]
Journal by Todd Borgie

Puerto Natalas to Rio Grande

Last night was heaven! We slept in a warm bed for the first time in about a week. Outside it was cold and rainy, and inside we were taken care of by a woman that looked like a perfect grandmother: radiate smile, rotund (like meals were her specialty), and slightly motherly, which is perfect when you are needing to be taken care of.

When I awoke, my bed was warm, my blankets were heavy, and I heard the sound of wind and rain outside. Unfortunately, I could not linger in the moment, because we were headed to Tierra del Fuego. After showers and some breakfast, we headed to the gas station. Adam, who had thrown out his back a day earlier, was convalescing in the back seat of D2 and in need of medicine. So, while the vehicles were getting washed, Chanda, Nancy, and I set out to find some Vikadin for our ailing teammate.

Combing the city for meds, we couldn’t find any Vikadin without prescription; therefore, we purchased a couple of strong anti-inflammatories and some muscle relaxers. Hopefully, his back will get better soon.

The cold, rainy weather did not let up as we neared the Land of Fire. It somehow seemed appropriate having dismal weather as we were heading to Land’s End. This land is called the Land of Fire (Tierra del Fuego). The name Tierra del Fuego was given to this place because the land appeared on fire due to large numbers of bonfires the Spanish saw from their ships. This area can get cold, so these bonfires were necessary to warm the native people, the Ona, Aush, and Yahgan, who are all pretty much extinct now. There is plenty of firewood around, as the heavy winds are constantly breaking branches, and driftwood is constantly washing ashore.

We hit the ferry stop at about 3:00 pm and needed to wait for the 4:00 pm ferry. Things seemed to go smoothly until they attempted to unload a bus, the second-to-last vehicle on the ferry. Unfortunately, the departure angle of the vehicle was less than optimal, and it scrapped and caught on the exit ramp of the ferry. It was caught in such a way that the back end of the bus was stuck, elevating the back wheels off the ground. Uffda? A solution needed to found! Soon, a semi was cabled up to the front bumper and it began tugging in order to free the bus, meanwhile the tide was departing, causing further problems, the worst of which could be a beached ferry. While the bus problem was being worked on, cars were loading up, some even bypassing the lines hoping for a quick cut-off. A mess would certainly ensue once the bus was freed.

Unfortunately, the Semi was only able to free the part of the bumper that held the cable, and nothing else. Now the bus sat there with a hole in its bumper, still stuck. Pieces of wood were jammed under the spinning tires, and a couple of other methods were tried, but to avail. The team met briefly to discuss the possibility of using our four Warn winches, but we couldn’t figure out a way in which we could define a common pulling point.

Anyway, with the big ferry stuck, a smaller one was brought in to avoid the large traffic buildup, trying to preserve some sort of schedule. All the waiting traffic pulled in and jockeyed for the best position. It was almost like we were playing a video game. The four vehicles pulled in tight, looking like a train. We got the eye of an attendant; sometimes it is great to have standout vehicles. He gave us a chance, and we wormed our way in and onto the ferry. T o be fair, it is important to realize that we were one of the first in line. We were forced to move as a result of the semi and long cable that was used to pull the bus. If those cables snap, there is no telling what that cable will hit, and they travel at considerable force.

Not long after the free-for-all, we were crossing the Straights of Magellan, named after the famed Portuguese explorer who first sailed through this area in 1520. I remember reading about Magellan and Cape Horn when I was in elementary school. It was pretty exciting to actually be here and see it! Who would have guessed, 25 years ago, when my third grade teacher Mrs. Halter was telling us all about these places, that I would actually be here? It really goes to show you can do anything you want!

The ferry ride took no more than twenty minutes, and we were on our way again. We enjoyed good roads for about 20 km, then they turned to gravel again. It was raining, which keept the dust down, which was nice. After about one hour, D2 came over the radio saying, “We just lost a tire”. It was raining out, and Nancy and I looked at each other. “Another one?” D3 and D1 wheeled around, and we quickly took care of the problem. It was one of my proudest team moments. The team acted as a fine-tuned watch. Nancy breaking out the jack and jacking up the vehicle, Nick and I removing the lug nuts from the spare and the downed tire, Chanda holding the nuts while we were exchanging wheels, and Neil looking pretty for the camera, giving the impression he was at the heart of the job. Seven minutes was the in-and-out time, thank goodness, because it was wet out there.

We continued on until the border, where we met a couple from Belgium who had been traveling for the last four months. We gave them a lift to Rio Grande, asking them about various aspects of Belgium. Rolf even provided a Belgium trivia contest; I don’t think they were impressed. In any case, it was fun to ask them about their country and travel experiences.

We finished the evening off 200 km short of Ushuaia, at about midnight. We are all eager to head to Ushuaia in the morning, and then to the end of the World!


Logbook for February 11th, Day 103
Start: Puerto Natales, Chile
Time: 10:00 a.m.
S: 51*43.597
W: 72*30.423
Finish: Rio Grande, Argentina
Time: 1:00 a.m.
S: 53*47.393
W: 67*42.505
Mileage: 344
Notes: We left Puerto Natales at 11:55 a.m., after getting a fillup and a carwash, and stopping at the drugstore for some painkillers for Adam. His back is still painful. We picked up a couple from Belgium on our way to the Argentine border, and we brought them to the town of Rio Grande. We arrived at midnight, ate dinner, nad found a place to stay. It was a hostel with two bunk rooms, and we were happy to have a warm and comfortable place to sleep. (N.O.)

Help support our cause: The LONGITUDE Expedition is the longest journey ever attempted with a focus on Parkinson's Disease. The Drive Around the World team aims to raise money for Parkinson’s Disease research by driving four certified pre-owned Land Rover Discoverys around the globe following lines of longitude. Readers are encouraged to pledge small amounts of money per expedition-kilometer via a pledge form that can be found on our Parkinson’s page by clicking here. 100% of donations received go directly to Parkinson's research and all who donate $10 or more will be entered into a raffle to win an expedition-equipped Land Rover Discovery.

Posted by Nancy Olson at 12:50 AM
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February 10, 2004

Feeling the pain in Torres Del Paine, Chile

teamtorres2x.jpg

[Above: The Drive Around the World team enjoys a morning underneath the majestic peaks of Torres del Paine National Park in Chile.]

Journal by Adam Burgess


No disagreement with the name -- Torres del Paine -- as I lay here almost completely immobile in the rear seat of the Land Rover. We camped our way down the altiplano of Chile with no villa stops and Internet cafes. It was nice for a change and after the first few nights without washing you become accustomed to your own grime. The sweat attracts the clouds of dust kicked up from the road by the convoy and campfire smoke lingers in everyone’s fleece but at least you have the comfort of knowing that the smell is your own for whatever good that offers. The last night at the National Park we camped near a mineral rich lake of a turquoise blue color. On the placid shore lay a badly decomposed guanaco (endangered llama-like creature), bleached white driftwood, and cobblestones.

In the evening the calm air and glassy lake took a major change as the winds began to howl through our rooftop tents. I lit a small fire between our cars and cooked two sausages for dinner. My food supply was down to 4 pieces of orange cream-filled chocolate, 8 slices of old salami, 2 pieces of cheese covered in somebody’s spilt milk, and three sausages. I swapped one sausage with Nick for a small bread roll and prepared for my sausage sandwich. While cooking the stick burned through and sausage #1 fell into the fire. A moment later the howling winds simultaneously blew my cheese onto the sand and my bread roll into the fire. I managed to overcome the obstacles by rinsing the charcoal-covered wiener and the sand coated slices of cheese with the almond-flavored tequila that Rolf had bought from Tequila, Mexico and by picking off the burnt black layer off of the roll. The tequila seemed to work fine and even improved the flavor of the sausages.

That night we drank the leftovers of the liquor people have accumulated from various stops in the Americas. Among these were rum, almond tequila, tequila gold, some horrible chemical-tasting juice bought in Argentina, red wine, bootlegged mescal from Mexico, and gin. A rough mix. The next day we woke up rather late and after a pot of Land Rover coffee and a jam-covered slice of bread we began kicking a soccer ball around in a circle. This went on for a while and we started getting quite skilled at keeping all 6 players juggling it to each other without letting it hit the ground. At about that moment I reached down to pick it up and my back completely blew out. I was immobile and could hardly walk. Existing was excruciating and now I am still lying on my back unable to lean over or walk properly. I have had others put on my socks and shoes and when I look in the mirror I am clearly crooked, my body is leaning to the right with extreme misalignment. So as the car rumbles across the dirt road leading to the “End of the World” I am considering buying a ticket to Buenos Aires and waiting there for the crew to arrive 10 days later. It will offer me time to recuperate while giving me a chance to edit together a short video for Nick to throw at some new sponsors.

Getting injured on something like this is my worst nightmare. Everyone around me is totally functional while I can only sit around in envy and pain. Being ill I can handle but being immobile is the ultimate frustration. I hope my back gets better over time because Brazil is coming up shortly and I’ve been looking forward to dancing and surfing the days away.

Logbook for February 10th, Day 102
Start: Laguna Armaga, Parque Nacional Torres del Paine, Chile
Time: 2:00 p.m.
S: 50*58.377
W: 72*43.859
Finish: Puerto Natales, Chile
Time: 9:45 p.m.
S: 51*43.597
W: 72*30.423
Mileage: 122
Notes: It was overcast and a bit drizzly when we woke up next to the lake, but it didn't dampen our spirits. We made coffee before departing for the park's entrance. Unfortunately, poor Adam threw out his back playing catch, and, after having played around most of the morning, we didn't enter the park until 3:00. Adam is in bad shape. We spent a few hours taking in some of the views, such as glaciers, mountains, wildlife (including a fox), and the famous Torres del Paines. We left in high spirits for our drive to Puerto Natales. There, after much searching, we arrived at Hospedaje Alicia. It was like being at Grandma's house. (N.O.)

Help support our cause: The LONGITUDE Expedition is the longest journey ever attempted with a focus on Parkinson's Disease. The Drive Around the World team aims to raise money for Parkinson’s Disease research by driving four certified pre-owned Land Rover Discoverys around the globe following lines of longitude. Readers are encouraged to pledge small amounts of money per expedition-kilometer via a pledge form that can be found on our Parkinson’s page by clicking here. 100% of donations received go directly to Parkinson's research and all who donate $10 or more will be entered into a raffle to win an expedition-equipped Land Rover Discovery.

Posted by Rolf Potts at 09:40 PM
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