September 23, 2004

Nancy and Chanda all wrapped up in Pakistan.
Journal by Nancy Olson, Photo by Justin Mounts
This blog will be short, because I’m at a restaurant, and people are looking over my shoulder. NOT COOL! They don’t speak or read English, but I’m touchy.
So, we’re driving through the Northern Areas of Pakistan, and it is quite an experience. It’s a little bit unsettling that our guide, Riaz, a native of Hunza in the Northern Area, feels like we must choose our stops and activities very carefully. When we have to make a bathroom stop, he makes sure we stop only at fancy, approved hotels. He says there are people in these parts who do not like Westerners, and that we should say we are from Canada if asked. I vowed I would never say I was from Canada, but I realize that I don’t have that right when traveling with a group. If, by saying I am an American, I can somehow endanger or jeopardize our group, I will, with great pain, say am a doggone Canadian. No offense to you fine neighbors to the north, but I am too proud of my country to feel at all comfortable saying I’m from anywhere but the U.S. I doubt I am very convincing, after all.
We met a busload of schoolchildren, boys and girls, and we had so much fun snapping pictures with them, shaking hands, and giving high fives. We each had so much fun that I just really wanted to let them know that we are Americans, so their perception of us could be based more on experience than schoolbooks and media. But we all lied and said we’re from Canada. So now they all have a wonderful perception of Canadians. So, you’re welcome, Canada. And I am sorry, U.S.
In these parts, the people are extremely conservative. There are few, if any, women visible in the streets. Although there are hundreds and hundreds of men out doing their business, I have seen but three women. And when I say I have “seen” them, what I mean is that I have recognized their presence. You can see them in the same way you can see a person hiding beneath a down comforter; they’re there, but that’s all you know. Remember when E.T. dressed up as a ghost for Halloween in order to sneak past Elliott’s mother? He was covered from head to toe, and all you could see were his big clown shoes. Well, E.T. had it good. He had holes for his eyeballs. These women have neither big clown shoes nor holes for their eyeballs. Their viewing slits are covered in dark mesh so that they can see out but nobody can see in. It must be hot under all that garb. I’m not judging either, because maybe they like it, but I sure wouldn’t.
Chanda asked where all the women are, and Riaz informed us they are in their homes. They do the housework and keep the home, washing, cleaning, cooking, minding the children, and what have you. I suspect, like most women, they also spend a bit of time gossiping with their neighbor ladies who are also at home doing the household chores. I mean, women are women, after all.
So, we drove north along the world’s most beautiful highway (the Karakoram Highway is smooth, and it passes through the most beautiful countryside I’ve ever seen). Pakistan is stunningly beautiful, and the weather has been perfect. The only problem is time. I look out at these incredible mountains, and I long to go to the top of them. But there’s no time for that. Oh, and the only other problem is that Chanda and I have to cover up from head to toe, with long pants, long sleeves, and scarves on our heads. It’s a small price to pay for a visit to this incredible country, and we don’t wish to offend.
| Logbook for Sept. 23rd, Day 328 | ||
|
Start: Islamabad, Pakistan Time: 6:20 a.m. N: 33* 42.588 E: 74* 03.094 |
Finish: Chillas, Pakistan Time: 8:30 p.m. N: 35* 25.888 E: 74* 06.033 | Mileage: 273 |
| Notes: Team made early rollout from Islamabad to the Karakoram Highway. Riskiest section was through Pakistan’s Northern Area, which shares a border with Afghanastan (about 235 mi away) and is a known area of support for the Taliban and Al-Quaeda. There were only one or two women on the street, and those we saw were covered from head to toe, without even their eyes showing. Team followed the Indus River most of the day through the Karakoram Range in the Himalayas. (N.O.) | ||
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